What started back in January has come full circle, as the saying goes, with our Factory Five Racing '33 hot rod going from a really big box of parts to a driving hot rod. The gang at Perewitz Cycle Fabrication in Bridgewater, Massachusetts, gets credit for puttin' in the time turning parts into a driver.

To find out just how good FFR '33 hot rod really fared we took it to the Goodguys Nationals in Columbus, Ohio, and entered it in the autocross challenge. Based on the track testing we had already done we knew the coupe would perform well but competition has a way of giving definitive answers. The hot rod timed the ninth best overall time at 31.91 seconds. Two other Factory Five cars scored better times. The second best overall time was achieved by an FFR Cobra at 30.909 seconds and sixth best time went to another coupe (similar to ours) at 31.36 seconds. (According to Nick Licata, our driver, this was an excellent time to have power steering. OK, next time.)

So we know our coupe can run hard and looks the part as a street rod but how can you go about building one of your own? Here's a brief rundown of what's involved:

Body
The base package is a fenderless roadster but for those who want full fenders (or cycle style) or a hardtop, these are package upgrades. You can also have electric power assist steering and optional steering columns available in either paintable or chrome-plated.

Other body package upgrades include switching from the standard transmission cover intended for an automatic to the tunnel package for a manual transmission, such as the one we used. OK, you're now steering in perfect comfort and can enhance your seating choices from the standard black vinyl roadster seats to the leather upgrade package, such as our project, or you can have vintage aluminum race seats and, if you wish, the same race seats covered in fabric.

The roadster (or coupe) comes with a standard hood but should you find yourself ordering a supercharged engine you may opt for the hood with additional hood clearance.

Paint
Dave's crew of Big Ron and Jay Crone readied the coupe for a liberal spray of PPG paint. A PPG waterborne Creamsicle Pearl Orange was used based on an Envirobase paint line combining T400 white with T427 yellow, and T4000 Crystal Silver. Once the basic color was applied then even coats of PPG Concept DCU2042 clear, and finally it was wet sanded to prep it for the next step.

What's a hot rod without a liberal application of flames? Dave started by using PPG DX394 surface cleaner and then loaded the spray gun with PPG Deltron White. Once dry, an even coat of PPG Deltron Indy Yellow was applied. To start the fades and add brilliance to the flames, Dave used an air brush loaded with PPG Candy Orange.

Chassis
The tubular chassis comes already equipped with motor mounts for a combination of Ford small-block V-8s that include such pushrod favorites as the 289/302/351 engines or the 4.6L-3V such as the one selected for this build. You will also need to select from a menu of driveshafts in 26- or 31-spline, depending on which manual you select. (Popular manuals include T-5, AOD, or Tremec 3550, TKO 500 and 600, or T-56 with modular motors.)

The rear suspension comes in one of two combinations with the standard being the four-link rear suspension with Koni coilover shocks, upper and lower control arms, and fasteners set up for an 8.8-inch Ford solid axle or equivalent. The optional set is a three-link with same Koni coilover shocks and control arms all set up for the same 8.8-inch rearend. You can also order optional Trac-Loc differential with 31-spline axles and 3.31 gears. There is also another version based on the Tru-Trac differential with 28-spline axles and 3.55 gears. To upgrade the brake package you can order 13-inch slotted performance brakes front and rear or an 11.65-inch package.