Q.I've been reading your articles with interest for some time now, but have never had the opportunity to ask a question until now. I just acquired a '28 Model A sedan highboy with an aftermarket 2x4 chassis (not sure of the maker, but it's nicely done) and a BB Chevy, Mustang II frontend, 8-inch Ford rearend with ladder bars and a Panhard rod, coilovers, etc. It is a generally well put-together car, and the only problem is that the chassis is stretched approximately 12 inches over stock. It looks kind of funny to me, and I would like to shorten the frontend to improve the proportions.
I would like to either install a dropped axle frontend (which would look better, but is more expensive) or retain the existing Mustang II frontend (not as nice, but a lot cheaper). The only way I can see to re-use the existing frontend would be to cut and shorten the frame somewhere forward of the firewall. I don't think I could cut the Mustang II unit off its existing placement without ruining it.
I would like your opinion on whether this can be done safely, and the best way to go about it. I am a so-so welder with only a 110-volt unit, but I have access to professional welders with full-on TIG and MIG welders.Bob BoothVia the Internet
A. Glad you enjoy the column, Bob, and thanks for writing! There are many approaches to accomplish your goal of shortening your chassis, but I will start by saying that a 110-volt MIG welder is really not up to the task. Also, unless you are very confident in your welding skills, you should probably have an expert do the structural welding. The last thing you want is for any chassis or suspension welding to break when you are driving the car!
If you choose to install a beam front axle, I'd suggest buying an aftermarket front crossmember and welding it into place in the location you want. You'll have to decide if you want to use the stock-style transverse spring, or perhaps coilover shock; you can buy components that allow you to use either of these frontend styles. You should be able to trim off all the Mustang II mounting hardware and keep your framerails intact. Of course, you'll have to buy a complete new front suspension, but these are available from a number of aftermarket sources, or you might get lucky at a local swap meet!
If you want to re-use the Mustang II suspension, you might consider buying an aftermarket crossmember for a '32 Ford frame that's already set up for the suspension; this will make the modification much easier since the suspension mounting points are already set up incorporating the proper geometry. While it's true that the stock Mustang suspension with stamped A-arms isn't a thing of beauty, you could always upgrade it later with tubular A-arms or other aftermarket components, all the way up to polished stainless spindles, which would make quite an attractive conversion! You'll find a variety of suspension styles based on the Mustang II geometry by browsing the advertisers in this magazine.
Q.I read your column in STREET RODDER all the time. I am a novice metal-worker and I'm building a 1936 Chevrolet Tudor. The rear inner wheelwell where the fenders bolt on are rotted away, and I am trying to figure out how to repair this area. I am going to tub the car, so I do not need the complete inner wheelwell; I only need to make a new lip to which the fenders will attach. Everybody I talk to gives me different advice. What is the best way to build this section? I've tried a couple of approaches, but with no luck so far.Gary ConnorCanadaVia the Internet
A. It's a little difficult to give you accurate advice without seeing the car. Part of the answer to your question depends on how much of the metal is missing.
The configuration of the original car is that the quarter-panel comes down toward the fender, and there is a bead around the edge of the fenderwell. From the bottom of this bead, the metal runs horizontally toward the center of the car, then drops down vertically to the bottom of the body. Since you plan to tub the body, you will be making metal replacements for the vertical portion of the wheelwell, and at least some of the horizontal portion. Therefore, I presume your primary question is based on some of the bead area of the body being rusted away.
If the bottom of the bead is gone, but the upper portion is still sound, the fix is pretty straightforward. I'd start by bending some sheetmetal into an angle, with one leg (the vertical one) about 3/4-inch, and the other leg (that will tie into the horizontal portion of the wheeltub) being about 1 inch.
Using a shrinker and stretcher, you can contour this angle to match the edge of the wheelwell very accurately, then lay the shaped angle over the original metal (with the fender in place if possible), and scribe a trim line around the outer edge of the angle.
Next, the body is trimmed on this scribed line, and the shaped angle is welded into place. From this point, you'll have an accurately shaped lip where the fender attaches to the car, and you'll be ready to build and attach the tubs.
If the rotted area extends above the top of the bead around the fender opening, you will probably need to use a bead roller to create the necessary pieces to match the original Chevrolet bead around the wheelwell.
Now you can e-mail your questions to Professor Hammer at covell@cruzio.com or send mail to Professor Hammer c/o STREET RODDER, 774 S. Placentia Ave., Placentia, CA 92870. We'll print your name and city unless you request otherwise. Ron Covell has made several metalworking videos, and offers an ongoing series of workshops across the nation covering all aspects of metalworking. Check them out online at www.covell.biz, or call (800) 747-4631, or (831) 768-0705 for a current schedule of workshops, or for a free catalog of videos, books, and fine-quality metalworking tools. You can also send a request by mail to Covell Creative Metalworking, 106 Airport Blvd., #105, Freedom, CA 95019.