It seems like it takes forever to get something on a roll. Then again, once a project car gets rolling, it seems like nothing can stop it. Phones ring, boxes show up, and we try our best to keep things from spinning out of control. If you asked editor Brennan, he'd tell you--in great detail, mind you--how things have spun out of control.
But we know; we're hip. Last month when we parted, Tech Center guru-in-training Jason Scudellari and I finished up mounting Total Performance's body to their chassis. After a few days' work, we actually felt pretty good about our abilities--even if the project only taxed our abilities to follow instructions and properly thread bolts.
This time, however, we got around to the heavy-duty things. A few months back, we chronicled how Smeding Performance worked their magic into their Hot Rod 383-inch Chevy package. By virtue of a new four-bolt GM block, a nodular iron 3.75-inch crank, Pro Action 2.02/1/60 heads, and 9:1 compression, it churns out a healthy 360 horsepower and untold amounts of tire-shredding torque--close to 420 pounds to be exact. Due to its inherent low-rpm, high-torque properties, Smeding refers to it as street friendly. We'll see if the hides agree.
With all that power on tap we expected the one-two shift to either put us in orbit or into the center divider, so we begged Phoenix Transmission's Greg Ducato for something relatively easy shifting. He took our gear ratio, engine power band, vehicle weight, tire size, and fear factor into account and matched us up with one of their stout GM TH350 models.
Phoenix really works a lot of attention into their packages. First off, instead of some nondescript black part in a cardboard box, we received a really well-detailed and carefully assembled transmission in a bona fide crate. But it wasn't just the nice aluminum-look paint that impressed us. They'd gone to the fuss of using all-new fasteners and paint when detailing the associated tin parts. They even eliminated the old, beat-down transmission pan in favor of a fresh one.
This trans features a shift package that allows us to manually shift when we feel like it or to let the trans do it for us when we don't. Phoenix uses a special intermediate sprag clutch and a high-rpm governor. The trans also features a slightly higher stall converter to contend with the Smeding 383's lope. Phoenix dyno tests each transmission before it leaves, a feature that let us breath easy. They even loaded our trans with a speedometer drive bullet in the tailshaft and fresh O-rings for the cooler fittings! Now that's attention to detail.
We mated the two parts and outfitted the trans with Total's ultra-simple and bulletproof shifter. It mounts within minutes, adjusts quickly, and lives at arm's reach on the passenger-side floor--well out of legs' way. It doesn't sacrifice safety for simplicity, either; it still features a reverse lockout and a park/neutral safety switch. It's so simple and easy to install that we've contemplated using it for other applications.
We rounded off this month's installation with one of Walker Radiator Works' coolers. Total Performance showcases these radiators in their catalog, so we took solace in the prospect that they'd fit. We trimmed some of the mounting flange and drilled the mounting holes, but everything dropped right in place as expected. The grille shell required a 3/16-inch-thick shim to mount properly to the radiator, but that's definitely within the average Joe's realm.
While we intended to start with a mechanical fan and upgrade to Walker's electric unit later on, the package told us we should probably just opt for the electric fan. The radiator just sits too low for a mechanical fan to work properly, so we finished it off with Walker's top-notch unit. We're secretly happy that we can start off electric, but we thought we'd kvetch anyway. So for now, hang on while we dig into the poor beast. We're getting closer and more excited as the days go by. Hopefully you feel the same.
Once he bolted the flexplate on, he attached the engine mounts to the block. | 
If the torque converter/transmission pump engagement procedure creates any doubts, double-check torque converter mounting once the engine mates to the transmission, but before tightening any bolts. With the engine on the trans, a 3/16-inch gap should exist between the torque converter and flexplate. If not, don't tighten the bellhousing bolts; the pump isn't engaged (likely) or there's a flexplate manufacturing issue (not so likely). Don't fret if it takes a few tries; the best of the pros have reduced a transmission to alloyed rubble in the past. | 
With everything bolted together, we lowered the drivetrain into place. As usual, everything lined up easily, so we slid the 3/8-inch mounting bolts in place and snugged everything down. |
Total Performance's shifter is a snap installation. We installed it by removing the upper tailshaft mounting bolts and by threading the assembly into place with the supplied bolts and spacers. | 
The instructions call for a 15 1/2-inch control rod, so we assembled the unit to specs. | 
The shifter uses a rather clever reverse lockout feature: a socket-headed capscrew in the shifter handle. When in park, the screw nestles into the hole that Jason's middle finger indicates. Disengage park by pressing the spring-loaded shifter handle to the driver's side and by sliding the handle back so the screw presses against the shifter body just under Jason's middle finger. That position indicates reverse. Slide the shifter back further yet until the capscrew clears the shifter body and the spring snaps the shifter handle back into place. That's neutral. We set the transmission into neutral and adjusted the rod-ended connecting rod so it spanned the exact distance. |
With rod ends in lieu of bent rods and clips, the Total Performance shifter lends a sure, snappy feel. We can't imagine anything but a serious catastrophe misaligning anything. Here's to hoping that we never find out. | 
Jason centered the radiator between the rails and marked the mounting ears for overall distance. | 
He then trimmed the ears with a pneumatic cutoff wheel. With the ears trimmed, Jason dropped the radiator back in place and transfer punched the frame mounting holes into the ears. He then drilled those to match. |
The grille shell even requires some snipping to fit, as it's wider than the rails' inside dimension. We addressed that with some aviation tin snips. | 
Out of the box, the grille shell comes up just shy of the radiator's height. Bolting everything together bent the shell ever so slightly, so Jason cut and drilled some 3/16-inch strap to span the gap. Even though the mounting flange is stout, the strap gives it some well-needed support. We're sure the radiator will appreciate it at speed. | 
After some head scratching, Jason used a slick and simple way to attach the fan to the radiator. He started by spanning the radiator's sides with 3/16 x 1/2-inch strap. |
He then set the fan onto the straps in the general location. He marked the strap based on the fan's mounting bolt holes. He drilled the strap based on the holes' location and bolted the fan to the straps with 1/4-20 fasteners. He faced the bolt heads towards the radiator to avoid damaging the radiator with protruding threaded ends. | 
With the fan fastened to the straps, Jason marked and drilled the straps and radiator side supports. | 
Jason based his mounting holes' diameter on his rivet availability. With that established, he pop riveted the straps in place, thereby rigidly mounting the fan to the radiator. Depending on the application, screws would work, however we didn't want to risk mounting integrity to sheetmetal screws. |
We leave you with a teaser: Edelbrock Performance Products' aluminum-bodied water pump. We used the short model to avoid any fit problems. Next month we'll dedicate more to the goodies we bolted to this mill. Stay tuned; it's really worth it. | | |