
There's something about a...

There's something about a dash swap that gets your attention. Our favorite is a '40 dash in a '34 Ford roadster.

This is a Wescott's '40-style...

This is a Wescott's '40-style dash for a '34 roadster.

We borrowed this original...

We borrowed this original '40 dash to locate the instrument and radio speaker grille openings.

Although the speaker opening...

Although the speaker opening was filled, we were able to figure out where it belonged thanks to the mounting holes for the grille.

The pattern made off the original...

The pattern made off the original was taped to the glass dash.
It seems most enthusiasts have strong ideas about what constitutes a street rod, how they should be built, and what they must be equipped with. Of course, for some of us, it's the details that set one car apart from another-the dashboard as an example.
As far as we're concerned, the dash in a street rod has to be practical. The gauges should be in plain view, all the switches should be within easy reach, and a glovebox to stash all your stuff is definitely a plus. Of course we're also talking hot rod here, so the dash has to add some character to the car as well, and one of the best ways to do that is a dash swap. We've always thought dash swaps were cool, particularly when it involved our favorite combination-a '40 Ford dash and a '34 Ford roadster. And that's the very combination we're putting together.
Our roadster is based on a Wescott's fiberglass '34 body. When we ordered it, we asked if a '40-style dash could be installed and, as luck would have it, that turned out to be an unadvertised option. To make the later dash fit, Wescott's has reencountered the upper flange to fit the early body and reshaped the ends slightly, but other than those minor modifications, the shape of the dash is unaltered. And while the 'glass dash lacks any openings for instruments or the stock speaker grille, the glovebox lid is hinged (but not latched).
Our plan was to equip the dash with a DC Street Rods' Deco gauge cluster (see Sept. '05 STREET RODDER) with Auto Meter gauges and a stock-style radio speaker grille and trim from Bob Drake. To finish the dash, the first task facing us was mounting the instrument panel. We were lucky enough to be able to borrow an original steel dash, so cutting the necessary openings for the gauge panel and speaker grille was simply a matter of making patterns and cutting the required holes.
Once the holes were cut, we had to come up with a way to attach everything. The stock Ford dash has four metal tabs on the backside that holds the instruments in place. Our solution was to simply epoxy four studs to the back of the glass dash and make a pair of aluminum retainers to hold the gauges in place. Mounting the Drake trim was just a matter of drilling the necessary holes for the mounting studs. But the real challenge was to find a way to latch the glovebox. We've seen just about every method, including the stock hardware, magnetic catches, springs, even Velcro. But then we thumbed through the Watson's StreetWorks catalog and found the solution-a power cowl vent motor.
At first the idea of a power glovebox door seemed sort of silly, but the more we thought about it, the better we liked the idea. The installation would be easy; it would provide security because, with the ignition off, the lid would be locked. But best of all it would be different (however, that turned out to be not entirely true; the best part was watching it work).
After a quick coat of primer, the dash was assembled and bolted in place and we couldn't be happier with the results. The easy-to-read gauges make it practical, it has the hot rod look we were after, and of course the electric lid provides the gizmo factor we dearly love.

Another pattern was made for...

Another pattern was made for the gauge insert. This one was made by taping heavy paper over the outside of the dash.

With the paper secured, it...

With the paper secured, it was marked from the backside. Note the four brackets that secure the instruments.

To hold our gauges in place,...

To hold our gauges in place, four screws were epoxied to the back of the dash.

A pair of aluminum plates...

A pair of aluminum plates were fastened to the back of the instrument cluster with existing screws, and then the brackets slip over the studs and are secured with four 10-24 nuts.

Here's what turned out to...

Here's what turned out to be our favorite part of this project: The glovebox door is opened by this power cowl vent motor and kit from Watson's StreetWorks.

Due to space constraints,...

Due to space constraints, we had to shorten the aluminum link that comes with the StreetWorks kit.

Mounting the motor and gear...

Mounting the motor and gear reduction unit was simple enough; two holes were drilled in the flange of the glovebox and the assembly was attached with the supplied machine screws.

With the lid closed and the...

With the lid closed and the actuating arm in its rearmost position, the obvious attachment point for the link was the arm on the hinge.

The arm travels in a circle...

The arm travels in a circle (rather than reversing) so the link is adjusted to close the lid at one extreme and open it at the other.

This tiny switch operates...

This tiny switch operates the glovebox motor. The button is released when the lid is fully opened or closed.