The FAST ECU was attached to the inside of the cowl on the passenger side of the interior behind the upholstery panel. | 
The FAST wiring comes complete with all necessary hardware to complete the electrical hookups. | 
The FAST Perfect Circuit wiring harness is clearly tagged so you can "plug and play" without worrying what wire goes where! |
OEM-style connectors are also clearly labeled for plug and play. Each harness is produced from high-temp and oil-resistant wiring that is sheathed in heavy gauges puncture-resistant heat shrink tubing. | 
What may have been the largest challenge of all: a route to pass the wiring harness from under the dash into the engine compartment without drilling any new holes. There's a hole on the roadster body between the firewall/toe-board and the engine compartment that worked well for passing the wiring harness through. | 
You will have to install a weld-on bung (PN 30-7018) to your exhaust pipe to house the O2 sensor. |
OEM-style connectors are also clearly labeled for plug and play. Each harness is produced from high-temp and oil-resistant wiring that is sheathed in heavy gauges puncture-resistant heat shrink tubing. | 
A handy tool is the Powerhouse Products Wide Band Air/Fuel Meter kit, which allows for accurate measurement of current engine air/fuel ratio for both carbureted and fuel-injected engines. | 
Lokar has everything you will need in the way of throttle components for your Ram Jet, such as these brackets. |
Street & Performance offers a polished fuel pump block-off plate along with a polished fuel injection filter kit that includes a bracket and fittings. | 
We opted to mount the filter and bracket directly to the block-off plate. | 
The fuel block-off plate, filter, and bracket in position along with the fittings and fuel injection rated braided fuel line. |
Top electrical hookup on the throttle body is for the idle air control while the lower hookup is for the throttle position sensor. | 
The throttle position sensor (TPS) monitors the throttle valve position (which determines how much air goes into the engine) so the ECU can respond quickly to changes, increasing or decreasing the fuel rate as necessary. | 
The idle air control (IAC) regulates the volume of air bypassed around the closed throttle. It stabilizes idle speed during cold-engine and after warm-up procedures. |
The FAST electronics comes with all the sensors you will need such as manifold atmospheric pressure (MAP), air temperature (AT), and engine coolant temperature (ECT). | 
This is an example of the MAP sensor from FAST. The MAP sensor monitors the pressure of the air in the intake manifold. The amount of air being drawn into the engine is a good indication of how much power it is producing; and the more air that goes into the engine, the lower the manifold pressure, so this reading is used to gauge how much power is being produced. | 
The GMPP MAP sensor bolts to the Ram Jet plenum on the driver side and the FAST wiring loom plugs directly into it. |
Make sure to read the "10 Tips for Starting" supplied in this article to help you get started. | 
In case you go with an external fuel pump assembly, FAST offers a complete system that includes pump, filters, electronics, and hardware. | 
You will adjust the timing once in traditional fashion then from this point on the computer will take over. Use an infrared heat gun to check the exhaust temperature of each header tube. If all injectors are good, they should be within 35 degrees of each other at idle. |
10 Tips to Get Started
1.You will want to check for leaks; fuel pressure leaks or oil leaks from the installation of the intake manifold.
2.You will want to check all sensors for their response: throttle position sensor (TPS), idle air control (IAC), manifold atmospheric pressure (MAP), air temperature (AT), engine coolant temperature (ECT). This can be accomplished from your laptop through the software program.
3.You will want to check for engine spark with the fuel pump off, crank the motor.
4.You will want to check your operational parameters for the fuel pump prime, crank angle fan--on and off.
5.You will want to check the fuel calculation parameters to see if your injector constant and cubic inch and number of cylinders are correct. 1 Bar map for naturally aspirated and 2 or 3 Bar for boosted applications.
6.You will want to check the main spark table at 100 kpa and set your cranking timing to 10 to 20 degrees.
7.You will want to set your main fuel table to 45 percent at 30 to 55 kpa and 600 to 1,000 rpm. This is where the motor should idle when started.
8.You will want to crank the engine and look at the cranking fuel at this point. Hopefully it starts up; if not you may need to add or subtract 20-percent fuel while cranking with this table. If the motor needs throttle to start, remove fuel. If it does not, you may need more fuel.
9.You will want to check the engine vitals of the motor, such as oil pressure, engine temperature, and, again, leaks. Once the engine starts, don't worry about the idle quality--just get it running.
10.You will want to now begin the main tuning. You must have two people for this as it's the only safe way to do it. You will work on you base maps for fuel and spark until you achieve desired results.