Once Tim has traced the pattern onto the steel, he's left with a gap at the bottom point. This gap is necessary because when the two edges are hammered down, the points will meet up and will be welded together.
With the part traced, it can then be cut out using a bandsaw, or in this case, a shear.
Using a transfer punch, Tim transfers the holes in the form onto the work piece and drills the piece out to the corresponding size of the dowel pins he will be using.
It is important to make sure the dowels are driven through the entire assembly.
The work piece is then sandwiched between the form and clamping block and two dowels inserted to keep everything aligned.
The whole assembly is then clamped to a hard, solid surface using C-clamps. Make sure the assembly is clamped very securely in place.
Once the assembly is clamped into place, it's time to get a-whackin'. Tim uses a plastic mallet to form the edges because it yields a cleaner side once the part is formed.
While the edges are formed, the metal wants to "pull" within the assembly, so Tim uses a finishing hammer to straighten the metal back into shape.
To define the edge, Tim uses the pick side of his body hammer and works the piece on an anvil until the edge is well defined.
The part is now formed and ready to fit to the lens and bezel. The finished piece can be used to either raise the taillight off the body or to recess it about a 1/4-inch. If we wanted to recess the taillight more, we would have added that amount when we traced the shape out onto the steel.
Now the hammerformed piece can be mocked up on the body with the complete taillight assembly. The next step would be to make another for the other side and then weld them into place. In this case, the pieces will also have to be cut in order to fit the taillight housings.
It is necessary to use both sides of the body hammer to work the piece into shape. Here he works the side smooth using the finishing end.
Don's Hot Rods
2643-B Dayton Pike
Dept. SRM
Germantown, OH 45327
(937) 855-3605
www.donshotrods.com