Flex Lines
When measuring for flex lines it is critical that suspension travel and wheel movement are taken into consideration. The front wheels must be able to turn lock-to-lock and both axles must be able to go through full suspension compression and rebound without putting stress on the hoses. More than one rodder has checked compression travel then jacked their car up only to find out the hoses weren't long enough when the wheels dropped.
Fuel Lines
Many of the considerations concerning the placement of brake lines apply to the fuel system as well. And while steel and stainless steel are the recommended materials for hard lines, aluminum tubing is sometimes used for fuel.
Aluminum tubing is light-that's why it's often found on race cars-but it chafes easily and needs more support than steel or stainless steel. For most carbureted applications, 3/8-inch line is adequate, although high-horsepower engines may require 1/2-inch for enough volume.
When plumbing the fuel system, keep in mind that today's gasoline additives (including alcohol) will cause conventional hose to deteriorate. Plan on replacing any rubber hose in the system every two years, or bite the bullet at the outset and buy the best braided hose with an inner liner you can find.
Ready, Set, Plumb
Before you begin to plumb a street rod chassis, here are some suggestions from the experts at Pure Choice Motorsports:
Identify the type of plumbing you want to use (stainless steel or steel).
Match the fittings to the type of flare used: AN fittings use 37-degree flares, SAE use 45-degree, double-inverted flares.
Use quality tools for installation to prevent rounding off fittings.
Do not over-tighten fittings. AN fittings should be snugged finger-tight then tightened approximately a quarter-turn. While 45-degree fittings require slightly more torque to seal, over-tightening should still be avoided.
Use anti-seize on all aluminum-to-aluminum or stainless-to-stainless fittings.
Use sealer on pipe threads with the tape or sealant starting on the second thread to keep from contaminating the system.
Keep all lines as far away from heat as possible.
Take a look at the photos for a few more tips and tricks on plumbing a chassis.
This is a close-up of the...
This is a close-up of the filing operation. Thanks to gravity, none of the filings ended up in the master cylinder.
Here's the finished produ...
Here's the finished product.
Using banjo fittings on the...
Using banjo fittings on the master cylinder can clean up the looks considerably and keep the lines tighter to the master cylinder.
Often improperly used, Teflon...
Often improperly used, Teflon tape is great for pipe threads. Note that the first two threads are exposed, and the tape is wrapped so it is "pulled" into the fitting as it is tightened.
When using a flex line in...
When using a flex line in a fuel system, make sure it is compatible with today's fuel. Unless you want to replace rubber lines every two years, the best option is plastic-lined braided hose. Note how this line has some slack in it to prevent putting the ends in tension.
There are all sorts of line...
There are all sorts of line clamps available; we chose the old-school rubber-lined variety.
Made for You offers the All...
Made for You offers the All Plumb Kit with everything necessary to secure brake and fuel lines, as well as electrical wires and air-conditioning hoses.