Out Of Balance BalancerQ.I may have done something dumb. I had a 383 Chevy stroker motor built by a local machine shop. I was told to use a 400 flexplate and vibration damper. The flexplate has a weight on it, as I think it should have, but I don't know how to identify a 400 damper. Since they don't have numbers on them, how do I tell one from another?Rob RadkinVia the Internet
A.Just for those who aren't familiar with this combination, by using a Chevy 400 crankshaft in a 350 block, the result is a 383ci small-block. The 400 crankshaft's main journals have to be turned down to the smaller 350 diameter, and as the bigger small-block is externally balanced, the 400 damper and flexplate must be used.
Take a look at this photo of a Chevy 400 damper; they are easily identifiable by the scallop in the outer surface.
Lucky BrakeI had an exciting moment commuting to work in my street rod that taught me a lesson I'd like to share. As I routinely approached an intersection, a return spring broke in the right rear brake on the 8-inch Ford rear axle (1967 Mustang). The brake pedal fell almost to the floor; the e-brake was useless, but downshifting, pedal pumping, and careful maneuvering to the roadside saved the day. The voice of experience says: Replace those old springs and retainers with a $10 box of new parts next time you do a brake job. Also replace the single cylinder master cylinder (if that's what you're still using) with a twin cylinder part. Believe me, you will be glad you did. Mike Chiavetta Donut DerelictVia the Internet
For those who may not recognize the name, Mike Chiavetta is the owner/ builder of one of the coolest woodies on the planet. Using a Dodge cowl, Model A fenders, and lots of lumber, Mike built his wagon from the ground up and has racked up untold miles behind the wheel.
Having had a similar "brake pedal to the floor" experience, his points are well taken. Brake hardware kits are cheap, and while all the old springs and retainers may look serviceable, why take a chance with parts that are so important? The best bet is to toss the old stuff and replace it all when new brake shoes are installed.
When it comes to master cylinders, it probably goes without saying that the tandem design is preferred. If a hydraulic failure occurs with a single reservoir, master cylinder pressure is lost in the entire system; consequently, the results can be catastrophic. With a tandem master cylinder, only half the system is lost, and half of a brake system is a bunch better than no brake system at all. Now, having said that, we also recognize that there are still lots of street rods with single-reservoir master cylinders (early Ford, Mustang fruit jars, and even the Chevy/GMC/International truck dual-master cylinders for clutch and brake that had a single fluid reservoir). In some cases, major chassis renovations would be required to change to dual-chamber design; in others, rodders are reluctant to change to a part that isn't period appropriate. In those instances, all we can say is check the fluid level often and inspect lines and hoses regularly for wear or damage.