To those who know me (or for that matter ever even seen me), an article titled "Dress for Success" will be instantly recognized as oxymoronic, to say the least. Fortunately for all, I'll leave the clothing fashion sense to rags like GQ and stick with a subject that matters much more to me than matching socks-the appropriate care and dressing of a hot rod engine.
This particular engine is by no means representative of the average street rod powerplant, but in many cases the same methods can be used to prepare an already well-running donor engine for hot rod duty. My subject is a '60 Ford 223-cube inline-six I inherited from my friend and publisher Tim Foss. The engine was yanked out of his F-100 pickup to make room for a pretty stout 351, and seeing that it was a strong runner-and that I'm a sucker for oddball powerplants-Tim thought it'd make for a cool source of power for my "Homebuilt Hot Rod" project; as always, he was correct. So without hesitation, I loaded up the rather greasy 'n' grimy six-banger and dragged it home.
Though I'd previously seen the 223 power Tim's pickup through a hard day's thrashin' at the California Speedway (a whole story in itself by the way) and heard it purr without a stutter, there were a few things I wanted to check out before nestling it between the 'rails of my pickup. But it needed a serious bath before its "checkup," so I stocked up on some degreaser, grabbed a putty knife and a wire brush, and borrowed my pal's pressure washer for an afternoon of driveway hygiene.
Keeping in mind that what I do is not always 100-percent correct, there are a few important things I check when contemplating a used engine as the source of power for any project. The first thing I personally do is pull the dipstick and check out the oil to see if it's contaminated with water (if so, it usually looks more like a chocolate milkshake than crude), or if it's more like sludge than liquid. Satisfied that there's no water or massive amounts of sludge sliding off the dipstick, the next step is to pop off a valve cover to see what's found up top. If one finds an accumulation of tar-like sludge up there, it's a safe bet the engine hasn't received its fair share of care and/or maintenance and could end up being a bit too long in the tooth for use without a rebuild. If it looks pretty clean, my next step would be the aforementioned bath and a quick compression test. With the compression test completed and the result acceptable, I then proceeded to drop the pan. There are a couple things I normally replace on any used engine I contemplate using without rebuilding-the oil pump and timing chain set. That done, the only thing left is to put some lipstick on this pig-so check out the images of my "rattle-can" rebuild, and keep in mind that with a bit of attention and a wee bit o' luck, a used engine can end up being an inexpensive and reliable way to get a budget hot rod on the road.

Here's the beast. Pretty homely,...

Here's the beast. Pretty homely, even though it had at this time received a good bath, though I think this inline will be right at home between the framerails of the '32 when it has been spruced up a bit.

After determining that the...

After determining that the engine was in well-enough running condition to use without resorting to a rebuild, I headed off to one of my favorite hot rod project havens-Egge Speed Shop.

The process started by disassembling...

The process started by disassembling the external engine parts.

Not being familiar with this...

Not being familiar with this particular engine, after pulling the intake I found spring-steel rings that fit into recesses in the intake ports of the cylinder head.

After stripping off all the...

After stripping off all the external bolt-on components, I pulled the crank bolt in preparation for replacing the timing set.

It was a bit of a fight, but...

It was a bit of a fight, but I finally got the balancer off. The only damage incurred was to my Taiwanese puller-oh well, you get what you pay for.

After dropping the pan (like...

After dropping the pan (like I said, I have a thing for replacing oil pumps), I was pleasantly surprised as to how clean the bottom end of the engine was-this thing had been well maintained.

One of the best things about...

One of the best things about dealing with an outfit like Egge Speed Shop is they carry a selection of aftermarket components that are every bit as high-quality as the hard parts they manufacture themselves-like this gasket set from Best Gaskets.

With the new oil pump and...

With the new oil pump and timing set installed, I popped out the old timing cover crank seal and installed the new one contained in the Best kit.

Next, I removed, bead blasted,...

Next, I removed, bead blasted, primed, and reinstalled the pushrod cover and gasket.

I did the same with the oil...

I did the same with the oil pan, checking the mounting flange with a straight edge to make sure I'd have a nice leak-free seal upon reinstallation.

Once it was buttoned up, I...

Once it was buttoned up, I primed the long-block with a high-quality rust-inhibiting primer.

With the engine block prepped...

With the engine block prepped and primed, it was then time to treat it to a coating of color.

Since I had no intention of...

Since I had no intention of using the stock tin valve cover, I left it in place while priming and painting to protect the valvetrain from overspray.

The water pump was painted...

The water pump was painted separately, as I had pulled it to lube the bearing and replace the gasket.

Once the paint was dry, I...

Once the paint was dry, I began to reassemble the engine.

I discovered that not only...

I discovered that not only do the rings align the intake and head ports, but they also work to hold the intake/exhaust manifold gasket as well.

Another one of my favorite...

Another one of my favorite places to shop is Sacramento Vintage Ford.

As soon as I got my hot little...

As soon as I got my hot little hands on it, I bolted that bad boy up and was rarin' to go.

My new Offenhauser goodies...

My new Offenhauser goodies from Egge Speed Shop would come next, and the engine would begin to look like something-this is fun.

OK, slow down. Looks like...

OK, slow down. Looks like the new Egge/Offy aluminum valve cover mounts via the use of two studs and the original used bolts around the parameter like early and late SBC's.

Now it's really beginning...

Now it's really beginning to look like something. The valve cover was ordered unpolished since I like the cast look versus the polished look-I'm not big on cleanin' and polishin'.

Here's where I'm at as of...

Here's where I'm at as of September 10. A bit of rattle-can black and silver and a swap meet coil cover, and the engine's nearly done.