The 1935-40 Ford cars saw little improvement made in the chassis department. Granted, there were numerous differences between the fat-fendered Fords and their predecessors, but there were few changes as far as overall improvements. The addition of hydraulic brakes was one major hurdle achieved, but otherwise the basic concept of cross-spring suspension design under the '35-40 Fords was the same as it had been since the '20s. Until the early '70s, when the Ford Motor Company introduced the Mustang II, very few aftermarket parts were produced for the Deuce's fat brethren. It didn't take hot rodders long to realize that the frontend under the gangly Pony cars were perfectly suited for under their hot rods. The Mustang II frontend was an independent front suspension design with a narrow track width, disc brakes, and rack-and-pinion steering-perfect for replacing the early Ford straight-axle design. It was compact and simple, and replacement parts were available at every parts house.
With the spawn of the Mustang II frontend, and the popularity of the conversion, it was only a matter of time before the aftermarket was off and running with various kits and upgrades. While this was definitely an upgrade from the original straight-axle design, it was far from an end-all solution. Swapping over to disc brakes up front meant changing out the original fruit jar master cylinder to a more modern dual-reservoir master cylinder, which meant modifying the mount and X-member. Most hot rodders who were going through the trouble of upgrading to an IFS were also swapping out the old Flathead for a modern V-8 engine and trans, which meant getting rid of the stock motor and transmission mounts and fabricating new ones in their place, as well as modifications to the radiator. Upgrades to the drivetrain also meant the closed driveline rearend would have to either be converted to open drive or replaced with a stouter modern rearend. Most modern rearends at the time mounted on parallel leaf springs, which meant one more modification to the stock chassis would have to be undertaken. With these points to ponder, it's easy to see how and why the aftermarket chassis industry came to be.
One of the companies making some pretty big waves lately is the Roadster Shop in Elgin, Illinois. They handle every aspect of frame construction in-house from 'rail construction to final fit, assembly, and even build turnkey cars. Their chassis line consists of everything from traditional, straight-axle suspension to contemporary fully independent suspension designs for Model As to Tri-Five Chevys. They recently built a fully independent chassis using Heidt's Hot Rod Shop suspension components for the '35-40 Ford model years. Starting with a set of their bare 'rails, we followed along as Doug Letzow and the crew at the Roadster Shop showed us the hows and whys of their chassis-building technique.

While these 'rails happen...

While these 'rails happen to be for a '32 Ford, every framerail at the Roadster Shop begins life as four separate pieces of 10-gauge steel, cut to shape and clamped together in a jig before being tack welded into place.

They also receive an interior...

They also receive an interior gusset weld their entire length, adding a 1/4-inch of material to the commonly stressed areas.

Before the framerail is completely...

Before the framerail is completely boxed, weld-nut plates are welded into place in all body, fender, and running board mounts instead of nutserts, which can be easily pulled out.

Once a pair of framerails...

Once a pair of framerails is complete, they are placed in the corresponding chassis jig, which in this case is a '35-40 Ford.

The front crossmember is located...

The front crossmember is located in the chassis jig using the corresponding fixture that locates the crossmember in the exact location relative to the framerails.

The mount for the upper control...

The mount for the upper control arm and shock mount are separate from the lower crossmember, requiring it to be attached to the framerail separately.

When they build a chassis,...

When they build a chassis, the Roadster Shop starts at the front end and works their way toward the rear. With the front crossmember tacked in place, it's time to install the X-member.

The fitment of the X-member...

The fitment of the X-member can be a little tight sometimes, requiring a bit of coercion to get it into place before being tack welded to the framerails.

Since space can be very limited...

Since space can be very limited in a street rod chassis, the Roadster Shop maintains adequate clearance for such things as the exhaust throughout the X-member by spreading the tubes the necessary space.

The framerails taper toward...

The framerails taper toward the front crossmember so it is necessary to mount the lower tube below the bottom of the framerail to maintain exhaust clearance.

The tube is then capped and...

The tube is then capped and blended into the framerail.

The rear half of the X-member...

The rear half of the X-member consists of four separate tubes cut to fit and tacked into position even with the top and bottom of the framerail.

The end result of the Roadster...

The end result of the Roadster Shop's tubular X-member is not only visually stunning, but it's actually a CAD-designed engineering improvement over the more common rectangular-tubing X-member.

The tubular X-member not only...

The tubular X-member not only provides strength and support to the center of the frame, but also incorporates a driveshaft hoop, dropout transmission mount, and master cylinder/ brake pedal mount.

The rear crossmember is a...

The rear crossmember is a fairly simple piece consisting of a bolt-in crossmember and two weld-in brackets.

Once the offending amount...

Once the offending amount is marked on the crossmember, it is then trimmed off using a bandsaw and further massaged using a die grinder equipped with a sanding disc.

If the measurements are correct,...

If the measurements are correct, the crossmember should be just snug enough to need a little help sliding into place.

Doug marked a centerline on...

Doug marked a centerline on the framerail and matched that to a corresponding line on the rear crossmember.

For vertical location, it's...

For vertical location, it's as simple as giving the rear crossmember the ol' eyeball technique.

With the rear crossmember...

With the rear crossmember looking level, measurements are taken from both sides between the front and rear crossmembers and diagonally as well.

The rear crossmember is set...

The rear crossmember is set up with zero degrees of caster and checked with a magnetic protractor or angle finder.

The rearend housing is bolted...

The rearend housing is bolted to the rear crossmember and the pinion support links and crossmember are installed.

The forward struts locate...

The forward struts locate off the lower control arms and attach to the frame at the rear of the lower X-member via urethane-bushed adjustable rod ends.

Now that the suspension is...

Now that the suspension is mounted in place, it's time to direct our attention to the engine and trans.

Since the transmission mount...

Since the transmission mount is already installed on the chassis, the tailshaft can be bolted in place and used as the defining factor to locate where the motor mounts will be.

The Roadster Shop has a number...

The Roadster Shop has a number of different pre-determined pedal-mount assemblies for each chassis they build that has the correct ratio built in.

Mounting pads for the body,...

Mounting pads for the body, fenders, and running boards are also added as needed so all the stock mounting points of every body can be picked up and used.

Through-frame brake fittings...

Through-frame brake fittings are used up front to allow clean brake line routing and rid the chassis of unsightly brake tabs hanging below the framerails.

Small details, such as the...

Small details, such as the radiator mounts, are just some of the things that aid in swapping over from a stock chassis to an aftermarket item.

The front suspension the Roadster...

The front suspension the Roadster Shop used on this chassis comes courtesy of Heidt's Hot Rod Shop and consists of their Superide II components.

Heidt's award-winning Mustang...

Heidt's award-winning Mustang II 2-inch dropped spindle, which allows easy installation of a front mount rack-and-pinion unit, is coupled with tubular upper and lower control arms with threaded adjusters that won't slip and lose alignment.

Heidt's award-winning Mustang...

Heidt's award-winning Mustang II 2-inch dropped spindle, which allows easy installation of a front mount rack-and-pinion unit, is coupled with tubular upper and lower control arms with threaded adjusters that won't slip and lose alignment.

Here's the finished chassis...

Here's the finished chassis waiting to be shipped out to another eager rodder.