After covering the floor and firewall with HushMat, we cut paper patterns and transferred them to the aluminum foil-backed jute padding that came in the carpet kit. We used shipping paper that we purchased at the local hardware store for pattern paper. While the HushMat will keep the heat out and the noise down, the jute will give the carpet a padded, comfy feel. We used 3M 08088 General Trim Adhesive to secure the jute padding.
With the jute padding securely in place, it was time to roll out the large piece of carpet and tackle the carpet installation. Again, we cut paper patterns and utilized those patterns to cut the carpet. Like all rod builders know, there are many choices throughout a buildup; how you choose to cut the patterns and install the carpet is up to you. We chose to make a left- and a right-hand piece, allowing us to more easily work the carpet over the transmission tunnel. After the carpet was fitted, we made a trip to a local upholstery shop and had black binding sewn around the edges. We then cut out another piece of carpet to act as a mat. To add some punch, that piece was bound in red, again by the local upholstery shop. Our 3M trim adhesive was again used to attach the carpet to the firewall and the transmission tunnel. The remainder of the carpet was left loose.
We cut two pieces of 3/4x1/2x1/16-inch-thick aluminum angle to the length of the door openings and drilled four countersunk holes in the 3/4-inch-wide side. The pieces were polished and placed over the carpet at the doorsills and secured to the body with chrome fillister head screws, making attractive and simple sill plates. We installed a shifter boot from Speedway Motors to finish up the carpet installation. When drilling holes for mounting the shifter boot, doorsills, etc., remember to punch holes in the carpet. A drill bit will catch the carpet pile and wrap it around the drill bit, causing a large pull in the carpet.
With the carpet installation complete, we were ready to tackle the seat cover. We started the seat cover process by very carefully removing the old seat cover; it is important to remove the seat cover without tearing the foam since the original foam will be reused.
With the seat cover removed, we realized that due to years of wear and the factory shape of the foam, some buildup of the seat would be necessary. Since the EZ Boy seat cover was designed to fit a fairly flat seat back and cushion, we utilized several layers of polyester batting to fill in the low spots and create a more flat surface. The batting is available at any sewing or craft store.
3M 08090 Super Trim Adhesive was used to secure the batting to the seat foam. 3M 08090 is an aerosol contact adhesive designed for bonding vinyl tops, heavyweight liners, and upholstery where high strength is required. It is important that you spray an even coat on both surfaces and wait at least five minutes after spraying; you have up to one hour to join the pieces.
We also noticed there were no provisions on the modern seat to utilize "hog rings," the old-style upholstery fasteners that came with the interior kit. We opted to attach 1x1/4-inch-thick wooden slats to the tubular seat frame to give us a place to staple the stretched seat cover material. After drilling holes through the wood and the seat frame, we countersunk the holes in the wood and utilized flathead machine screws, flat washers, and locknuts to secure the wood to the tubular frame.
We wrapped the seat back cushion and frame assembly in plastic garbage bags to ease the installation of the seat back cover. The plastic bags allowed the seat back cover to slip over the foam and batting without moving or pulling the batting. The garbage bags were removed after the seat back cover was slid over the cushion and frame.
Following the instructions supplied by EZ Boy, we pulled and stretched the covers and stapled them to the wooden framework. The key to correctly installing the seat covers is to keep the piping on the seat covers lined up with the edges of the seat cushions while pulling the cover tight.
We reassembled the seat back and cushion and painted the plastic parts that cover the seat side hardware and hinges with red spray-can paint, designed to adhere to plastic. The seat upholstery was completed first so we could determine where the seams between the red bolster and the black rolled 'n' pleated pattern should be located on the back wraparound and the door and kick panels. All of the panel seams should line up with the seat back seam for a professional appearance.