Better IFS for 1949 - 1954 Chevys - Independence Refined

If this '54 Chevy looks familiar to you eagle-eyed readers, it's because Delton Russell's ride was the subject of the Fatman Fabrications dropped spindle upright story we did in the January '07 issue of SRM. But then, one of the perks of Delton's job at Fatman is that it offers him access to the latest and greatest products before they're released; so, the '54 is back again, this time for an all-new suspension modification.

One of the practical issues to be dealt with when creating new aftermarket parts is research and development. That's another way of saying you make something and then try it out. Delton's Chevy was the test vehicle for Fatman's new dropped uprights, even though future plans were to update the chassis with a Mustang II IFS, small-block Chevy and automatic, and a later rearend.

Delton's Chevy is truly a work in progress, and changes are being made as time and money allows. One of the biggest mistakes most homebuilders make is to blow a car apart with grandiose ideas only to find the project turns into a life-long activity. Delton wants to enjoy his car, so it's only off the road long enough to make one change at a time. That's one of the reasons the stock engine is staying put for now, but a five-speed and a '57 rear will soon be put in place to make the six-banger happier at highway speeds.

While even more running gear changes are in store for the dual-door in the future, the next step in the Chevy's transformation was the installation of a Fatman Mustang II IFS. Delton's build style leans toward the old school, so he wasn't looking to lay the rocker panels on the ground. For that reason, he chose the standard-height kit for an authentic vintage style (an ultra-low version is also available). Take a look at the following photos to see how easy it is to make a good car even better in not a lot of time, and for not a lot of money.

Fatman Fabrications'
Tips On Building An Affordable '49-54 Chevy
Chevys from '49-54 have become very popular for a variety of good reasons-not the least of which are that they are good-looking, easy to find, and affordable to build. And to make them even more appealing, Fatman has developed a number of suspension options, including dropped-spindle uprights for original suspension systems, installation kits for Mustang II IFS, and narrow A-arms for cars with subframes.

For the best ride and handling, the crew at Fatman has found the Mustang II suspension with power rack-and-pinion steering is the best choice for '49-54 Chevys. It is very easy to install and reasonably priced. Removing the stock suspension is simply a matter of unbolting it; once that is done, the mounting holes should be welded solid to maintain the structural integrity of the frame. The radiator support can even remain in place for easy remounting of the sheetmetal.

When installing the new front crossmember, the front axle centerline is determined by the rear boltholes on the V bracket for the original front suspension. On some '53-54 cars, the front axle centerline looks better 1 inch farther back, so check the location of the wheels in the fenders before disassembly.

Tubular control arms are recommended since the stock strut rods will interfere with the trans mount K-member leg. Mustang II V-6 springs are about right with a small-block Chevy, while Mustang II V-8 springs work well with big-blocks. Half of a coil can be cut off the springs for a 1-inch drop to fine-tune the ride height after all the weight is on the car. Do not trim over one full coil to maintain ride quality. Steering hookup is best accomplished with a 30- to 32-inch aftermarket column, or a '78-87 Monte Carlo/Malibu OEM unit. A Fatman three-joint hookup kit with Borgeson U-joints will clear any engine and exhaust combination we've seen, and aftermarket shift linkages from Lokar work great.

Thanks to the size of the engine compartment, either small- or big-block engines fit well, especially when coupled to a TH350 trans. The stock trans mount works fine once the rivets are replaced with bolts to allow easy transmission servicing. Turbo 400 and 700-R4 trans will require a new crossmember that can be fabricated from 2-inch square tubing in a K-member shape similar to the original. Be sure to bolt it to the frame flanges at four locations. These larger transmissions will also require a new bolt-in pedal assembly, as the original is lost when the stock mount is removed. Fatman tubular motor mounts weld in, provide excellent clearance for steering hookup, and reinforce these somewhat-weak frames.