1951 Ford Woodie - A Quick & Easy Ifs Upgrade

With the front sheetmetal out of the way, it's time to start exposing the front of the car's frame-rails and removing anything that will impede the removal of the OEM front frame section.

The first and most obvious subject for removal at this point is the car's Flathead engine and transmission, clearing the way for the next step in the procedure.

With the engine and trans out of the way, the next item to go is the steering linkage. Matt began by removing the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie-rod ends and Pitman arm so he could remove the linkage as an assembly. Also, if you look closely at the steering column (just above the box), you can see where Matt severed the column with a Sawzall-though the original steering gear will be discarded the column will be re-bushed and retained for use with the new rack-and-pinion.

As is the case with old cars, nothin' comes easy. A bit of persuasion with an air hammer separated the tie rods from the steering arms.

With many of the preliminary chores completed, it was time to make sure the car was level from side to side and front to rear. Most of us don't have the luxury of a two-post lift, so setting the car up on a quartet of jackstands is the way to go. Just make sure the front stands are not ahead of the firewall so they don't interfere with the removal and installation of the front frame stub.

As hard as it is for us guys, reading the instructions is a must in an installation of this sort. There are some simple yet important measurements that need to be taken and recorded. With the vehicle leveled off both front to rear and side to side, as previously stated, you'll then want to get the measurement from the garage floor to the bottom of the framerails at the front of the frame, and write down that measurement.

In preparation for the next set of measurements, you'll want to remove the OEM steering box, brake line connectors, etc., from the 'rails between the original coil spring pockets and the front body mount framerail junctions.

With those aforementioned section of 'rails cleaned up, the next step is to measure back (in this particular case) 27 3/4 inches from a straightedge laid across the front 'rails rearward down each 'rail toward the firewall and scribe a mark on each. Next, take that straightedge, line it up on the marks you just made, and scribe a line across the tops of both 'rails.

Next, use a square scribe down the inside, outside, and bottom of the 'rails-these will be the cutoff lines for the original 'rails.

Using a cutoff wheel or Sawzall, make your first cuts on the bottom surface of the 'rails. If you were to cut the tops and sides first, the weight of the assembly would bear down on the bottom sections, and more than likely bind up the blade or wheel of the chosen cutting devise-or have the severed assembly fall on your head while you're under there cutting away.

Another thing you want to do is support the front stub so it doesn't crash to the floor once cut free. Here Matt proceeds to cut the sides and tops of the 'rails after first cutting the bottoms.