Signature Series '32 Ford highboy roadster - Load And Go: Part I

Installation Jason Scudellari was in charge of the forklift (our version of an engine hoist) while Tech Editor Jim Rizzo (left) and myself guided the engine/trans into position-the first time!

Strip-Down
The first step will be to remove the front sheetmetal comprising the hood, side panels, and a pair of hood braces, grille shell, and a temporary grille shell support that's there for shipping purposes. Be careful to capture the rubber radiator mounts once the temp support is removed because you will reuse them. The provided aluminum radiator needs mounting holes cut into the tabs when final placement comes about.

Engine & Trans
If you are like us (or any other rodder), the excitement really mounts when it comes time to install the engine and trans. Let's face it, it just isn't a hot rod without the powertrain!

A few tips: Bolt the engine mounts to the block before beginning the installation. At this time, we also found it was a good idea to install the starter, finish off the engine accessories-such as the alternator, thermostat, and housing-and (in our case) install the Tru-Ram exhaust manifolds from Speedway. We did have the distributor in place, but trial and error (ours) has proved it best to leave the distributor out until the engine is resting in position. The clearance between the engine and firewall dictates that you use a small GM cap distributor. In our case, we used an MSD Pro-Billet Ready-to-Run (with vacuum advance lockout feature), complete with primary wires. You can install the engine and transmission separately, but this would be our second choice. No matter how good you think you are, this is really a two-person job to get the best results. Before sliding the combo in, we also bolted the rubber tranny mount to the TCI Automotive Turbo 350.

Look closely and you will see an "ear" that is used to move the trans about at the factory.

While you are fitting the engine and trans, now would be a good time to drop off the driveshaft and have the yoke and U-joints installed (optional driveshaft kit sold separately through Speedway) if you aren't planning on doing this yourself. The working length of the driveshaft kit that we picked up from Speedway measured 31 1/2 inches long, but a 32 1/2-inch driveshaft should work as well. If you are having a driveshaft made locally, you may want to install the engine and transmission first, and then verify the driveshaft measurement.

We did find one interesting anomaly. To our knowledge, we believe all Turbo 350 transmissions come with an "ear" with a hole in it on each side of the trans; this was used at the factory to move it around. Well, we noticed the ear on the driver side would hit the body sheetmetal, but getting out a high-speed cutting tool and removing all the ears solved the problem easily enough, since they won't be needed. It isn't necessary to cut off the passenger-side ears, but we removed them while we were at it.

The two engine mounts and the transmission mount bracket (provided) can be bolted down now that the engine and trans are in place; this would also be an opportune time to install the driveshaft if it is ready to go. Remember that the brakes come preassembled and ready to go. There's no effort here, but now might also be a good time to install the fuel lines and whatever fuel pump you select. The powertrain and chassis are now complete.

We found that the factory-cast ear on the tranny touched the body on the driver side and it was best to "whiz"-wheel off both ears to make everything fit neatly, although the passenger side's ears didn't interfere.

Trans Tunnel
Believe it or not, one of the more time-consuming projects, given its simplicity, is the installation of the Lokar shifter and e-brake system. These parts are not supplied, but they can be ordered through the Speedway catalog. The time isn't in the shifter or e-brake installation as much as it is in figuring exactly where to cut the hole in the removable transmission hump cover.

The first step is to remove the interior carpeting, as you don't want to take the chance of damaging it. This will entail removal of a handful of screws, doorsill plates, and some trim, but that's the easy part. You will want to be careful to not sit down on this now-exposed area, as there is glue (used to hold down the insulation) and it makes a mess on your jeans-just ask Tech Editor Riz!

The cover is provided but comes with no hole and has its insulation glued down with the carpeting in place. The insulation and carpeting remove easily, but you will also find yourself removing the interior carpeting as well, so as not to damage it.

Measuring for the shifter/e-brake hole isn't difficult; you just don't want to make the hole too large or the metal trim ring (provided) will not do its job properly. The ring is a bendable metal and blends to the contour of the tranny hump.

While the trim ring is provided, you will have to supply the hardware. We used 1/4-20x1-inch button heads. Riz started the project by drilling a 17/64-inch pilot hole. Who knew the hardest part of this project would be fitting the shifter trim ring, because according to Riz, "I never owned a car with carpeting!"

With the engine and trans in place, the next step was to bolt up both the engine and tranny mounts, and then work on fitting the Lokar shifter (PN 491-635OB) and e-brake assembly.

Wiring
The remainder of the interior was bolted back into place and the interior was ready to go once we finished off the trans tunnel. Yep, even the ignition key came in place and ready to be used. All the gauges are wired to the fuse panel and the wiring from the panel is run into the engine compartment.

The wiring diagram provided is loaded with all the info you will need, and the wires are color-coded, which makes finding their position very easy. Remember, you will have to ground the engine to the frame. Note: Make sure your ground wire is touching bare metal and not painted metal, as this will lessen the quality of the ground and may cause problems.

The battery tray is in the trunk (which is also upholstered), so you will need to run both hot and ground wires to their respective positions at the starter or ground to the frame.

The Last Thing
While we have everything in position, bolted into place, wired, and the interior is bolted in, some last-minuet items include finishing off the engine compartment with the exhaust system, radiator and fluids, and one last tune on the engine. That will happen next month, so come back and see how we do for a bunch of "magazine guys."

The chassis is complete and that means nicely painted, and all hardware was torqued at the Speedway facility.	The driveshaft is an optional item, but we opted to order direct from Speedway using PN 910-483 for a 31 1/2-inch-long 'shaft.	The frame's crossmember assembly is made from rectangular tubing, which offers both strength and assists in allowing plenty of clearance for packaging of the transmission and exhaust system.
Our motor uses a standard (or small) cap MSD distributor.	Remember that bundle of wires we spoke about earlier inside the engine compartment just inside the hood? Well, get out the Speedway wiring schematic (provided) and follow along.	The SS '32 comes with a complete interior, but you will have to cut a hole into the transmission tunnel for the floor shifter and e-brake.
Once you peel away the carpeting and insulation, you will take the trim ring provided and carefully locate the position of the hole, which is determined by the location for the shifter and e-brake lever.	Once the hole is cut into the trans tunnel, place the insulation and carpeting back into position and trace the hole opening.	Place the insulation back onto the tunnel, then place the carpeting and then the trim ring, which is held in place with a half-dozen nuts and bolts (also provided).

Speedway Signature Series '32
Parts required to finish a car taken directly from the Speedway Motors catalog: