How about if we start with a bit of background info, just for the record. Ever since I was in the fourth grade, there has been a 1932 Ford highboy roadster on my want list. Now that I have graduated to the eighth grade (in my late 40s), all the necessary elements have fallen in place.
About a year and a half ago, Barry White came into my office and asked if I would be interested in buying a Deuce. My reply was, definitely. Since then, not much has happened, as I had to recover from the initial cost of purchasing a roller body, frame, and suspension package that already had a few SRRC tricks engineered into it.
Fast-forward to December 2001, when I purchased a crated Christmas gift (for myself) from Scoggin-Dickey, in the form of a GM Performance Parts Ram-Jet 350. With the engine in our possession, we were able to mock up the complete drivetrain, all the way back to the fabricated 9-inch rear from Competition Engineering.
Once most of the weight was in the chassis and it was sitting close to where our ride height would eventually be, we could send it out to fit the body gaps, align the three-piece Marcel hood, and prep the swap meet body for paint. Our first installment will show you how we mated a roll pan (also a swap meet item) to the previously acquired body. Unfortunately, the body and the roll pan both came from different manufacturers (something we would not suggest), so a bit more fitting and shaping was required.
Along the way, Barry had a good idea (as he often does). We cut two reliefs in the underside of the panel, so the tailpipes would not interfere with the roll pan. Here, you can see how they were marked, cut, and finished off for a nice clean look. We will bring you other installments as the Online Deuce goes from cyberspace to the streets of Southern California.
For years, the roll pan has...
For years, the roll pan has been a common addition to the backside of most fenderless 1932 Fords that are built without retaining the stock gas tank. This photo shows what would have been visible had we decided not to mold one on.
Since there is virtually no...
Since there is virtually no way to hold the panel in place, we installed a few nut-serts and bolted the panel to the body. To avoid a clearance problem with our fabricated exhaust system, two reliefs were marked out, using masking tape and a black marker. Please note: When using one of these markers, do not run your lines directly onto the fiberglass. Most markers are permanent, and your lines will cause havoc when it comes time to paint (yep, it will bleed right through).
With our marker lines as a...
With our marker lines as a guide, it was time to crank up the hole saw.
Then, we used a ruler to mark...
Then, we used a ruler to mark the next cut lines.
After a few zips with the...
After a few zips with the cut-off wheel, the excess material was gone, and ready for the next step.
We fabricated half-round pieces...
We fabricated half-round pieces of fiberglass to serve as the finished edge of each cutout. After making a slice right down the center, we had two pieces to work with.
Then, a little grinding was...
Then, a little grinding was done to prep the area that would soon be bonded.
Next, the relief edges were...
Next, the relief edges were set in place.
We continued by cutting strips...
We continued by cutting strips of fiberglass matting.
Then, we mixed a small batch...
Then, we mixed a small batch of fiberglass resin.
Using an acid brush, the resin...
Using an acid brush, the resin was applied to the openings in the panel . . .
. . . and to the edges of...
. . . and to the edges of the cutouts.
The strips of fiberglass matting...
The strips of fiberglass matting were used to strengthen the bond . . .
. . . between the panel and...
. . . between the panel and its new cutouts.
Next, the bonded edges were...
Next, the bonded edges were trimmed . . .
. . . the openings smooth...
. . . the openings smoothed
. . . and finally, ground...
. . . and finally, ground down to a matching height of about 1-1/2 inches.
The inside edges of the fiberglass...
The inside edges of the fiberglass reliefs each received a skim coat of body filler to finish them off.
Now, it was time to actually...
Now, it was time to actually bond the roll pan to the body. A small batch of talc (fiberglass powder) was mixed.
The talc and resin is what...
The talc and resin is what actually creates the solid bond between the roll pan and the body itself.
A small amount of the talc...
A small amount of the talc and resin mixture was spread evenly . . .
. . . to the body and roll...
. . . to the body and roll pan
. . . before it was finally...
. . . before it was finally bolted in place.
Before the talc was ready...
Before the talc was ready to set up, we smoothed the excess material from the seam . . .
. . . although a coat of regular...
. . . although a coat of regular body filler will be spread in order to complete the job.
With most of the sanding done,...
With most of the sanding done, here is our nearly finished panel. Stay tuned to streetrodderweb as the Online Deuce goes from a dusty hulk to a head-turning SoCal cruiser.