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The Online Deuce, Part 2Brake-Line Plumbing, and More From the July, 2009 issue of Street Rodder By Randy Fish Illustrators: Randy Fish
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Our first installment of the Online Deuce showed you how we molded a roll pan onto the back body panel, in place of the stock gas tank. Now, the chassis and bolt-on parts are back in the shop, freshly coated with Ultra Orange Pearl from House of Kolor. The engine, trans, and third member were painted steel gray metallic, and I couldn't be happier with the color choices, as my lifelong dream finally begins to take shape. By the way, this dream is being made possible thanks to Barry White, proprietor of Street Rod Repair Company. We've been friends since the late '80s when I was the "Road Warrior" for Juliano's. This latest installment will focus on brake-line plumbing and installing the engine, trans, and exhaust system. In order to fabricate your brake plumbing system, you'll need two drills (heavy duty and standard), the necessary drill bits; a 47-degree flaring tool (use single flares only for stainless), a 3/16-inch tubing bender, a roll of Teflon tape, and an assortment of hand tools. To be safe, order 20 feet of 3/16-inch stainless tubing, four through-frame fittings, four 1/8th pipe to -3, 90-degree fittings, two 1/8th pipe to -3 "T" fittings, fourteen -3 nuts and sleeves, four 1/8th pipe to -3 straight fittings, two banjo fittings (if using a Corvette master cylinder), one brake light switch fitting, two 2-pound check valves (if using four-wheel discs), one package of SRRC line clamps, and one SRRC low-pressure brake light switch. Please note: With the exception of the banjo fittings for the master cylinder, all of the fittings used here are of the AN variety. So much for the laundry list. Let's plumb!  We drilled pilot holes for...  We drilled pilot holes for the through-frame fittings first, and followed with the "big bit." Then, we drilled for the smaller fittings and line clamps. When planning your system, always mock things up with your straight tubing to get an idea where your fittings and attaching points need to be. On a completed chassis like this, lay pieces of masking tape on the rails to protect the paint, mark your hole locations, and then drill.  With a painted chassis, drilling...  With a painted chassis, drilling for the through-frame fittings will make you the most nervous. Remember to drill slowly, keep your drill level, and the end result will look like this.  It's a good idea to use a...  It's a good idea to use a small dab of anti-sieze before bolting both halves together. The fittings come with fiber washers, to protect your paint. Use extreme caution when tightening the fittings. One slip of the wrench means touch-up time!  After making the bends, you'll...  After making the bends, you'll be ready to flare both ends. Be sure not to use too much pressure when clamping the tubing, and do not use excessive pressure when flaring, as the tubing can crack if you use too much muscle.  We finished bending the front...  We finished bending the front tubing that runs from one through-frame fitting to the other. Measure twice, cut once. Remember to insert your fittings and nuts, and follow up with the second bend. The front and rear lines are critical, as they connect the through-frame fittings.  Since you'll only want to...  Since you'll only want to do this job once, wrapping the threads with Teflon tape will ensure a solid, leak-proof seal.  Starting at the right front,...  Starting at the right front, the Teflon-wrapped elbow threads into the through-frame fitting. Now, you're ready to measure, measure, bend, cut, flare, and so on.  We trial-fit our front line...  We trial-fit our front line and measuring twice paid off. After installing our second elbow on the driver's side through-frame fitting, the front line was screwed in place.  After mocking up our attachment...  After mocking up our attachment points, we drilled for our SRRC line clamps using a 1/4-inch bit. Here's where pre-planning pays off, as you can drill all of your anchor points, and keep on assembling.  The line clamps we're using...  The line clamps we're using feature a two-piece, push-lock design. The shoulder fits into the hole, and the clamp itself locks in as it bottoms out.  Barry uses a small piece of...  Barry uses a small piece of tubing to help snap the clamp in place. The piece of line acts as a "T", which helps spread the pressure for a positive lock.  Working carefully from the...  Working carefully from the left front through-frame fitting, our finished line doesn't interfere with the steering box mount, the motor mount, or the hairpin nut.  We're using an SRRC low-pressure...  We're using an SRRC low-pressure brake light switch, and once again, Teflon tape ensures a positive, leak-proof seal.  The brake light switch is...  The brake light switch is plumbed into the line that supplies fluid to the front wheels. This placement is optimal, since your front brakes energize first, and accomplish 60 percent of your stopping force. Also note the 2-pound check valve plumbed into each supply line.  In order to ensure constant...  In order to ensure constant clearance with the rear sway bar, we used a pair of flush, stainless line clamps from Kugel Komponents.  Now in the home stretch, we...  Now in the home stretch, we finally attached our rear line to the passenger's side elbow fitting, completing the job.  Slowly, we lowered the engine...  Slowly, we lowered the engine in place, taking care not to nick that tasty House of Kolor Ultra Orange Pearl paint.  I mounted the No-Leak Headers...  I mounted the No-Leak Headers from HPC, using Earl's Pressure Master Seals (manufactured by Parker Hannifin), which feature an aluminum retainer with graphite foil inserts.  Barry bolted in the intermediate...  Barry bolted in the intermediate pipes, which feature an HPC, ball-socket-type connection at the merge collector. Instead of normal hangers, SRRC fabricates trick, insulated anchors that bolt to threaded inserts welded to the frame.  By the time we mounted our...  By the time we mounted our Flowmasters, over-the-axle pipes, brake pedal arm, and Vega steering box, it was going on Midnight. So "we wuzz done" for the night. With its debut set for the SRMA Reception at SEMA, we've made more progress since shooting this brake line piece. Now, the body is bolted in place, the doors are hung, and a few other tasks are done and out of the way. We'll show you more as things progress.
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House of Kolor
210 Crosby St.
Picayune
MS
39466
6-01/-798-4229
www.houseofkolor.com
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Street Rod Repair Company (SRRC)
720 Hundley Way
Placentia
CA
92870
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High Performance Coatings (HPC)
550 W. 3615 S.
Salt Lake City
UT
8-01/-262-6807
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ExhaustNotes
It's been said that no act of stupidity goes unpunished. Not long ago we had the opportunity to...
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