Quick Change Axle - Quick-Change Artist

Understand that this remedy applies exclusively to single- and two-link suspension designs (where the suspension articulates from one or two pivot points). Do not try to apply this design to a leaf-sprung or four-link design. It will bind. Trust us.

Theoretically one torque rod is sufficient to prevent both radius rods from bearing any torsion load since the axle is rigid and won't twist. In a sense it leaves the other radius rod to control only the axle's longitudinal location on that side. But if you're a belts-and-suspenders type you can run one on the other side too.

And that axle stiffness brings up an important point that bears mentioning whenever discussing any two-link design. Split radius rods, ladder bars, and even the factory two-link systems under early Oldsmobiles and '60-72 GM pickups turn the rear axle into an anti-roll bar of sorts. The distance between the leading ends of the links determines the anti-roll properties: If kept close to each other the anti-roll force is negligible; however, dramatically spreading the forward ends of the pick-up points (i.e. mounting them to the frame rails) can cause a dangerous oversteer condition. The extreme leveraging forces in such a design can also crack tabs and axle housings. GM certainly understood that dynamic, hence the close-set mounting points on the Olds and GM designs.

From there the design is rather open to interpretation. Frank used a tie-rod end on his, but it's largely unwarranted; the torque rod is fixed and will not articulate. It is there merely to transmit load. Spherical rod ends, clevises, and urethane-bushed rod ends yield the same result.

Tanks
Mounting a quick-change axle can present a few challenges. They're a snap to install in a Ford up to 1931 as the spring and crossmember mounted over the rear axle. But starting in 1932, Ford mounted the rear spring behind the axle. Since the spring no longer needed to clear the axle housing, the company removed the spring's pronounced arch. What's more, Ford relocated the fuel tank behind that crossmember. The cars from then onward rode better, had bigger trunks, and were safer, but the longer quick-change housing won't fit.

There is a remedy, even if it is a little drastic. It requires replacing the crossmember and spring with those from a Model A. Since the spring-eye dimensions are the same to 1940 the spring bolts in; however, replacing the crossmember does require some fabrication. The really thorny part involves the fuel tank. It too is in the way of the longer case.

Racers traditionally replaced the tank with a smaller and lighter one and there is something to be said about removing the tank to show off such an exotic piece of hardware, but that's not everybody's objective.

For Frank to keep his stock Deuce tank, he nibbled a chunk out of the flange and the middle of its leading edge. It's really not that technical of a procedure, even if it requires X-ray quality welds.

But first a word of caution: gasoline is highly flammable. Yeah, it surprised us, too. In fact, even though a tank might look perfectly clean, it might have trace amounts of gasoline in its seams and under its baffles. Once upon a time the common practice was to pay a radiator shop to boil the tank prior to any repairs, but with the eco-war going on right now a lot of shops won't do it. And due to the liability wars fought every day, we won't tell you any of our patented tricks, either.

It's for the risk and the fact that old tanks tend to get a little thin in the belly that Frank decided to start with a new reproduction Vintique tank. At the very least it keeps another complete original Deuce tank in circulation.