A touch of talent, an abundance of free time, a can or two of striping enamel, a few assorted brushes, and the wish to embellish just about anything that doesn't run away is about all one needs to learn how to pinstripe-eventually, that is. Once the basics have been learned, one can then begin to utilize more of the wide variety of specialized brushes, enamels, and techniques needed to expand from short straight lines to a combination of long lines and stylized designs that'll set your hot rod, street rod, classic truck, or motorcycle aside from the rest.
Following up on last issue's introduction to the art of pinstriping is part two-a look at how an accomplished "pinhead" approaches the blank canvas of a street rod. Whether it's just a few licks or a full-on mass of lines and designs, pinstriping is the icing on that cake you call a hot rod. Here, we'll take a quick look at tools, surface prep, design, and layout, and some techniques that we observed when we had Jeff "Styles" lay some lines on our STREET RODDER project Deuce some weeks ago. So check it out.
 Pinstriping hot rods is quite...  Pinstriping hot rods is quite an art form and, since the early days of the pinhead pioneers, has evolved immensely. The tools (brushes, etc.), the paints, and the vastness of artistic styles have made great leaps as well. Pinstriping is an art form that many can and do master; it just takes the willingness to experiment and practice, practice, practice. |  Today, pinstriping brushes...  Today, pinstriping brushes are available in a vast variety of styles and sizes and are designed for a myriad of jobs and effects. Some of the most common pinstriping brushes used these days are Series 10 Sword Stripers (available in sizes from 000 to 4) and Series 20 Touch-up Brushes (available in sizes 00 to 5). |  These are good, reliable,...  These are good, reliable, all-around brushes for both laying long lines and design work. Just keep in mind that the Series 20s are of a slightly stiffer blend than the 10s, which actually make them good for chip touch-up, as well. |
 Lettering and striping paints...  Lettering and striping paints have come a long way from their humble beginnings. The most common seems to be good old Sign Painters 1-Shot lettering enamel like you see here. Lately there's been a bunch of advancements with the introduction of some great new products like Carrel Brothers Pinhead Ink which is compatible with most clears (including powder coat), and urethane's like ALSA's Striper striping and lettering urethane. |  Prepping the surface to be...  Prepping the surface to be striped is very important. It's imperative to begin with a clean, wax-and/or silicone-free surface. A good wash with an automotive car wash solution is a start, followed by a wipe down with a good grade of wax and grease remover. Naptha benzene will work as well and is available at most hardware stores like Home Depot. |  Once you've played with enough...  Once you've played with enough practice panels and chosen the brush style you find most comfortable, and have cleaned and prepped your subject, it's time to take the plunge and tackle laying some lines. A good starting point would be to pull some lines that will enhance the body style lines of the particular subject. Here Styles shows an option that a lot of novices and some professionals use to aid in pulling long straight lines: Fine Line tape. Narrow 1/8- or 1/4-inch tape pulled along a body line makes a great guide to follow and definitely helps keep those pulls uniform and straight. |
 Once readied for your first...  Once readied for your first pull and you've decided on a color choice, prepping and loading the brush (sometimes referred to as paletting) is the next important step. This is done so the paint is of the correct consistency and the brush loaded correctly. You'll want to dip the brush in reducer first and then into the paint. Next, palette the brush back and forth until you reach a smooth even drag, you'll know it when it happens. |  Brush grip is important, too,...  Brush grip is important, too, and the basic thumb and index finger grip is the norm. For straight lines, place two fingers at the brush ferrule (the point at which the bristles attach to the handle) and the three remaining fingers in contact with the surface. You can use your second finger at the lower edge of the tape you've laid down as a guide (here Styles is ready to pull a second line of contrasting color just above the line already in place). |  Your free fingers should touch...  Your free fingers should touch the surface first, then the brush. Take a look at how much of the brush is in contact with the surface as well as the brush angle. |