Prepping the Frame
When it comes to utilizing an original frame assembly there are a few preparatory chores needed before installing new steering and suspension components. The most important of these are making sure the frame is square (by measuring it in an X fashion from the right rear corner to the left front and vise versa (you should come up with an equal length for both, denoting that the frame is indeed square). The next step would be the boxing the framerails so the frame will be able to handle a modern drivetrain installed in a frame originally designed for the rigors of a whopping 200ci, 40hp four-cylinder. Stock framerails should be boxed their full length for the greatest rigidity, though if that's not feasible, box 'em from the front crossmember to at least 5 inches beyond the point at which the hairpin or 4-Bar brackets are mounted to the framerails. The same procedure should be followed on the rear portions of the framerails as well. Also, when boxing the frame, be sure to weld just a portion of the plates at a time so as not to over heat the 'rails and risk warpage. It's also a good idea to tack-weld a couple of temporary supports across the top and bottom of the 'rails (from left 'rail to right 'rail) as insurance, once you're through boxing, the supports can be removed and the tack welds smoothed off with a grinding wheel. With the frame prepped the installation can proceed.
Got Everything You'll Need?
No matter where your components came from the first order of business is to lay them out and match what you've got with the parts listing or diagram in the accompanying instruction sheets. If everything is there you're ready to begin, if something is missing get on the horn and get it handled-this is always the type of install you want to complete from start to finish without a multi-day break in the middle of the process. And, oh yes, use the darn instructions provided. No matter how comfortable you feel performing an install of this kind, reading the instructions will nearly always save time and aggravation by making sure assembly is done in order and nothing is either missed or installed in the incorrect order.
Once you've prepped the frame, laid out and checked all the parts needed are on hand, and gone over the instruction sheets at least once, you're now ready to proceed. So, take a look at the following images. They should give you a good idea of how to tackle what really is a straightforward installation and one that'll get you a long way to a great foundation for a safe, good handling, and surprisingly affordable hot rod.
As any seasoned rodder will...
As any seasoned rodder will attest, Pete & Jakes Hot Rod Parts offers everything needed to put together high-quality great handling traditional-styled, and extremely affordable components. These suspension components are available as individual parts and assemblies or as complete all-inclusive kits.
Michael began the process...
Michael began the process by chasing the threads (both internal and external) of all the fasteners and threaded components. Once sure they were all cleaned up he tackled the I-beam assembly. The batwings were attached to the axle by sliding them over the axle bosses and holding them in by sliding the shackle bolts through the bosses from the top and sliding the lower shock mounts underneath. Pay attention to those batwings as there is a difference left and right. The right-hand batwing has an integral tab that is the mounting point for the front Panhard bar and that tab should point inward toward the center of the frame.
The next step is to install...
The next step is to install the shackle bushings into both the spring perches and the eyelets of the front spring (if they're a tight fit a C-clamp works as an easy way to press them into place). The shackles can then be slid through the perch and through one end of the spring. Slide the shackle plate over the studs and start the locknuts on the studs leaving them slightly loose for the time being.
At this point you can rotate...
At this point you can rotate the shackles so that they're pointing inward toward the center of the chassis and slide the second shackle through the bushed eyelet of the opposite side of the front spring, add the second shackle plate and lock nuts and snug 'em up.
With the axle/spring assembly...
With the axle/spring assembly all together you can then lift it into place into the front crossmember. The centering pin in the spring pack and the locator hole in the front crossmember ensure correct location, and the spring shackle was then installed sandwiching the spring pack between it and the crossmember.
Next Michael installed a pair...
Next Michael installed a pair of spring clamps to either side of the spring pack to keep the spring leaves in place as the spring slider pucks that smooth out the spring action also may allow them to twist slightly out of alignment during use as well. Spring clamps (arrow) keep the leaves stacked so they perform to their fullest potential.
The next step is to assemble...
The next step is to assemble the Pete & Jakes hairpin radius rods. The longer bars of the radius rods go on the bottom. The front clevis' threads should be treated to a coating of anti-seize and threaded into the hairpin tubes (don't forget the jamb nuts) as are the rear ones. With Pete & Jakes radius rods the rear mounting positions are 37-5/8-inches rearward of the front axle centerline. Keep in mind the radius rods should wind up as close to horizontal as possible when the car is at finished weight (engine/trans etc. installed) and at ride height.
When assembling the radius...
When assembling the radius rods it's always a good idea to set one on top of the other and run bolts through the clevis' and rear mounts; this'll ensure the two assemblies are adjusted to the same length. It's also advisable to thread the ends in at roughly the halfway point so you have equal amounts of adjustment at each point.
With the hairpins set up and...
With the hairpins set up and adjusted to equal lengths, Michael then attached 'em to the batwings and the rear mounting brackets. Before tacking the brackets to the framerails he made sure he double-checked the measurements shown in the instruction sheet so the brackets were located correctly at 37-5/8-inches rearward from the front crossmember centerline.