Starting with the modified...
Starting with the modified Speedway Motors cushioning biscuit and base cup, the notched Guide headlight base cup was lowered into position. Cornell cut a section of 7/8-inch diameter with 1/8-inch wall steel tubing next to mount to the notched base cup and engine-mounting plate. He then dropped a bolt and washer into place to illustrate the final mock up of the unit.
Once the engine-mounting plate was back from CBM Fabrication, it was bolted into place so Cornell could follow with measurements for support mounts to the inner framerail. Wanting the mounts to be as stout as possible, a section of 3-inch pipe with 1/8-inch wall was selected for durability. Measuring from the top of the inner framerail to just below the base, a half-moon section was marked and cut in a bench vise using an air driven cutoff wheel while wearing eye protection. The section was then massaged using a grinder and belt sander to fit the outer circumference of the rubber biscuit and base cup from where it overhangs the inner framerail. Cornell then followed by making a small filler piece from 1/8-inch plate steel for the top of the mount for added strength, which he TIG-welded into place and grinded smooth.
Prior to welding the support into place, it was time to address the link that would tie the engine-mounting plate to the chassis. It's a well-known fact that the Rolling Bones team recycles as many vintage parts whenever possible into their builds. To top the 3-inch rubber biscuits, a set of vintage Guide headlight base cups were notched to fit the side of the engine-mounting plate. For the upper tie-in, Cornell used 7/8-inch steel pipe with a 1/8-inch wall to bring everything together. When the perfect alignment was attained, Cornell secured the parts with a vise, removed the engine-mounting plate, and TIG-welded everything together. After reinstalling the engine-mounting plate, Cornell used a center punch and hammer to set the exact spot needing to be drilled and tapped atop the framerail. An accommodation was made for the engine mount by installing a 1/2-inch steel plate bung under the upper framerail. Cornell removed the engine-mounting plate and drilled the mounting hole with a 25/64-inch bit. He tapped the hole with a 7/16-inch fine tap and once the area was blown clean, reinstalled the mounting plate, securing it to the block and chassis with Grade-8 bolts and washers. The final TIG welding was then completed to the supports for the inner framerails.
A vise was then used to secure...
A vise was then used to secure the pipe section to the engine-mounting plate for perfect placement in final welding.
The engine-mounting plate...
The engine-mounting plate was bolted back into place and Cornell followed by using a center punch and hammer to mark the spot that needed to be tapped atop the chassis 'rail.
After removing the engine-mounting...
After removing the engine-mounting plate, a drill was used along with a 25/64-inch bit to drill through the framerail and inner frame bung. Once the area was blown clean, a 7/16-inch fine tap to thread the bolthole through the chassis 'rail and internal frame bung followed.
Once completed, the engine-mounting...
Once completed, the engine-mounting plate was secured into place along with the base cup, cushioning biscuit, notched upper cup, and 7/16-inch Grade-8 bolt and washer.
With the engine finally secured into place, Cornell focused on fabricating a mounting plate for the T5 transmission. Using a piece of Masonite board, Cornell measured and designed a simple yet functional transmission mounting plate, which was cut out from 1/4-inch plate steel; 1/4-inch shims were also incorporated to allow the plate to drop down from the frame to accommodate proper clearance for the tailshaft of the transmission. Once the plate was deburred and secured into place, Cornell used angle finders on the ends of both the transmission tailshaft and rearend yoke to ensure they were both at 0 degrees before measuring for the driveshaft. After determining the length of 37 inches, a call was placed to Universal Driveshaft in Albany, New York, for one of their all-steel units.
Well, there you have it: A simple and easy guide to installing a vintage V-8, a modern manual overdrive transmission, and a driveshaft that will yield you a powertrain that will be sure to give you countless miles of driveability. The completed installation is not only one with killer looks, but one which should be durable enough for the toughest abuse of both local and cross country runs, which the Rolling Bones team proves every time they tank up and hit the road hard.
After TIG welding and smoothing...
After TIG welding and smoothing the inner framerail engine support mount and upper filler piece together, the unit was clamped into place and prepared for welding to the chassis.
Cornell used his TIG welder...
Cornell used his TIG welder to tack the inner supports into place and checked them for proper alignment to the inner 'rails before proceeding with the final welding.
The downright bitchin' engine-mounting...
The downright bitchin' engine-mounting plate and chassis support mounts not only secure the vintage Ford V-8 to the frame, it also adds plenty of aggressiveness to the overall execution of the installation.
Using 1/4-inch flat steel...
Using 1/4-inch flat steel stock, Cornell cut the transmission-mounting plate to fit and clamped it to the center crossmembers. Note that he will also adapt a 1/4-inch shim to drop it down to accommodate the tailshaft of the transmission.
When the frame was being built,...
When the frame was being built, the team incorporated a half-moon cut into one of the bracing crossmembers to allow adequate room for the tailshaft of the transmission.
This shot lets you see just...
This shot lets you see just how clean the installation of the transmission mount came out.
To prepare for measuring of...
To prepare for measuring of the driveshaft, angle finders were mounted to both the rearend yoke and the transmission tailshaft to ensure both angles zeroed themselves out.
Here Cornell measures for...
Here Cornell measures for the overall length of the driveshaft, which in this case was 37 inches.
Universal Driveshaft Company...
Universal Driveshaft Company supplied the measured-to-fit driveshaft for the custom installation. This completed the installation of the drivetrain in the rolling chassis.