Back from MetalWorks, RamRodder...
Back from MetalWorks, RamRodder is stripped clean and corrosion free. As long as its environment is dry, the organic rust preventative will keep it like this long enough to get the bodywork done and primer applied.
It's probably human nature but our projects seem to bog down ever so slightly (OK, maybe even quite a bit) when we get to the chores that aren't our favorites-that's where we are with RamRodder. It was time to start bodywork and that meant stripping off all the old paint and undercoating and then finding and fixing any rust. It's a dirty, tedious job, and if not done properly lousy surface preparation will come back and haunt you about the time the last coat of paint dries.
There are a variety of methods to strip the finish off an old car, sandpaper and elbow grease are the time-honored ingredients to getting the job done, but we were looking for a method that was faster and more effective. About the time we were going to start thumbing through the phonebook looking for sand blasters we met Jon Mannila of MetalWorks Classic Auto Restoration in Eugene, Oregon. Mannila and his crew had a selection of cars on display at a local car show and to describe the quality of the body and paintwork as outstanding would be a gross understatement. After visiting his shop it was obvious that most of the cars being built from the ground up had been acid dipped, a service MetalWorks offers and something Mannila believes is the best way to remove the paint and rust before beginning a restoration.
To allow the chemicals to...
To allow the chemicals to get to every nook and cranny, Jon Mannila removed the door hinges before RamRodder went in the first tank.
One of the common fears about acid dipping is that the chemicals will somehow come out of seam or crevice later on and damage new paint-it's a concern that Mannila tells us results in the most frequently asked questions. However once he explains the process, those fears are gone and the advantages are clear. When a body is dipped, every surface is getting cleaned because it is completely submerged in the solutions. With media blasting, the only surfaces that can be cleaned are those the gun can be pointed at as there is with sand blasting. Another advantage of acid dipping is there is no chance for warping large body panels.
The stripping process is done in three steps. The first is paint removal; this procedure removes paint, dirt, oils, and most undercoating. After this step the body is power washed and thoroughly rinsed. The second step is acid dipping-this neutralizes the paint removal chemicals so it can't cause problems later on and removes any rust even in those places you can't see-the result is metal that looks like new. After this step the body is again power washed and rinsed. The final step is the application of an organic, water-based, rust inhibitor that protects the bare metal during transportation and storage prior to being painted.
MetalWorks Tim Meltabarger...
MetalWorks Tim Meltabarger and Bo Keepers inspect the body and attach it to a lift with a sling.
Preparing a body to be dipped means stripping it completely-glass, trim, handles, everything comes off until a bare shell remains. Aluminum and pot metal parts must be removed, including identification tags. Springs, such as those found in trunk hinges have to be taken off as well, as the process will weaken them. Finally, be prepared to remove any lead from the seams afterward, as the chemicals will change its composition.
After hot tubbing RamRodder we couldn't be happier with the results. All the original paint, seam sealer, and sound deadener were gone. Although there were a few new rust holes that were now exposed and would have to be dealt with, the acid bath took care of any other corroded spots we couldn't see and will prevent any further damage. And while the floor was gone the body didn't have a ding anywhere and showed no signs of ever being damaged. Suddenly doing bodywork doesn't seem to be the daunting task it once was.
Bodies like our Plymouth with...
Bodies like our Plymouth with a high crown in the roof may require a small, easily filled vent hole to release trapped air, otherwise the underside of the roof my not be treated. However, for those who prefer not to add the hole, that step can be skipped and the area cleaned by hand.
Down she goes into the paint...
Down she goes into the paint stripping solution. The MetalWorks tanks are big enough to handle just about any body.
With the body completely submerged,...
With the body completely submerged, the tank is covered with an insulated lid-the RamRodder spent the next three days soaking.
The body was removed from...
The body was removed from the stripper and moved to the rinse area. Confining and managing the various solutions in accordance with a long list of regulations is an important part of the process.
Wayne Thom thoroughly washed...
Wayne Thom thoroughly washed the body top to bottom and inside out. The amount of crud that comes out of the body's inner structure is surprising and another great argument for utilizing this process.
After power washing and rinsing,...
After power washing and rinsing, the coupe went into the neutralizing acid bath-where it stayed for a day.
Look closely and you'll see...
Look closely and you'll see air escaping up through the bath from the hole in the roof. In some cases holes in fenderwells also help, but again that's the customers' call.
Metlabarger and Thom double-team...
Metlabarger and Thom double-team the body power washing and rinsing repeatedly. The two-tank process and their thoroughness mean that there won't be any problems with paint later on.
The last step is drenching...
The last step is drenching the body inside and out with rust preventative. A wipe down with metal prep and a light sanding is all that's necessary before primer is applied.
Along with the paint and primer...
Along with the paint and primer most undercoatings will be removed as well. It's hard to believe but the inside of the quarter-panels were once coated with thick sound deadener. The process also removes the factory seam sealer.
The lead in the factory seams...
The lead in the factory seams will have to be heated with a torch and removed. We'll probably be putting lead back, but modern polyester filler works just fine.
We did find a little rust...
We did find a little rust in the body below the trunk lid and in front of the rear fenders, but nothing serious. The good part is any rust in hidden areas has been neutralized and will no longer be a problem.