Fatman Frame Stub Install - Courier Clippin' Part 2

Next the spindles are installed on each side. Note the steering arm orientation that corresponds with the front-mounted rack.

The first step is to install the caliper mounting brackets using the provided stock Mustang II upper cradle bolt and lower bolt. Be sure to use a small amount of Loctite on each. ECI has strict installation instructions that must be followed before any plating or painting is done to ensure proper fitment of all components.

Antiseize is a must when it comes to dealing with stainless steel fasteners and is always a good idea when it comes to assembling suspension components. Just be sure that every fastener is of the locking type.

The bearings are packed with high-temp disc brake grease before they're installed in the hubs.

Next the hub is installed onto the spindle, both bearings are greased and in place along with the applicable seal, bearing washer, and retaining nut.

The rotor is then slid into place, followed by the caliper. Make sure the bleeders point up!

At the time of the install, we fabbed up a couple of shock struts (arrow) to support the weight of the car until we could figure out the particulars of the QA1 coilover shocks we'd be using.

Here's the QA1 shocks (PN DDR5855B) that we ended up going with. They'll be complemented by a 600-pound spring and feature double adjustability.

The stock Mustang II rack-and-pinion assembly requires an extension be installed to fit our application. First the righthand boot is removed to allow access to the tie-rod end, which is then removed.

The provided rack extension is then installed followed by the original tie-rod end. We used a bit of Loctite once again to ensure the assembly stays assembled.

And there you have it; here's the frontend assembled with a set of rollers installed to once again check for fender clearance, axle centerlines, etc.

With the suspension components installed and all the measurements checking out (to within 1/16 inch I might add!), the frame stub was welded up to the stock chassis.

One thing to be aware of is any wheel clearance that may arise when it comes to disc brake installs. Since we're using a moderately sized rotor (11 inches), it shouldn't be much of an issue with any aftermarket wheel over 15 inches, but a 14-inch steel wheel might cause a bit of interference.

As I mentioned before, I like to go a little above and beyond and opted to add a pair of 1/4-inch plates on both sides of the framerails, TIG-welded on all four sides.

Just for illustration purposes, here's a shot of the painted front chassis after we installed the Master Power Brakes master cylinder and Chassis Engineering motor mounts. We'll get into the details of those two items a little later.

We also gave the Eaton springs, U-bolts, shackles, and plates a coat of Rust Encapsulator to ensure they're well protected and looking good to boot.

Here's the 8-inch rear after the Currie overhaul with a fresh coat of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator paint to protect it.

Currie has a specially formulated gear oil to use with their rearends, as well as a special limited-slip friction modifier.

The front of the leaf springs bolt directly to the frame on the stock chassis. Eaton provided new hardware for this, which we applied a coat of antisieze to ensure everything can come back apart if need be and to prevent any galling, corrosion, or bind.

The rearend is then slid into place, before the rear shackles are attached.

We used antisieze on all the shackle bushings as well as the hardware to prevent any binding from taking place, resulting in a freely moving, supple suspension setup.

And here's the finished product! A new front frame stub, fresh rear suspension, a new set of wheels and tires, and a quickie rattle can weathered paintjob completely changed the look of our wagon from s*** pile to style!

Note the relationship between the spring eyelet and that of the frame mount.

Here's the rear shackle installed, completing the spring assembly.

We picked up these 215/70R15 BFGoodrich Redline tires from Coker Tire. The '60s vibe of the Redline will fit the build style of the wagon nicely, while aesthetically setting off the blue and white paint scheme to come.

Adding to the '60s vibe is a set of 15x6 Rocket Racing Wheels Fuel Gray aluminum wheels. Crafted from A356 aluminum and topped with an O-ring center cap, the Fuel wheel is also available fully polished or chromes as well for that extra bling.

QA1's Stocker Star single adjustable shocks will be soaking up the bumps out back.