The first step is deciding...
The first step is deciding the right amount to narrow the shell. I'm using a paper tracing from the grille shell here. This makes it easy to try out different arrangements. I've decided to narrow it 5 inches on the top, and 6 inches on the bottom. One of the problems of narrowing the shell this much is that it doesn't leave much of a peak at the top of the radiator opening. We'll address this shortly.
Last month we went through the process of chopping a 1932 Ford grille shell. For another example of how a grille shell can set a particular style for a car, look at some of the modified roadsters built lately, such as Chris Staneck's car that was on the cover of STREET RODDER (April 2010), or some of the cars built by Steve Grimes. On these cars, the grille shell has been radically narrowed, which gives them a lean, narrow, and serious race car-style look.
The work required for this modification is just a little more involved than the previous example, but still within reach for a beginning to mid-level metalworker. Some of the challenges are getting the contours on each side to match in the center, after removing a 5-inch strip, and regaining the distinctive peak at the top of the radiator opening. By following these photos, you'll see how to accomplish these goals.
Ron Covell has made a DVD that covers the work done in parts 1 and 2 of this series, showing the process of re-proportioning a '28 and a '32 Ford grille shell. Every step is shown in detail, with great close-up shots, and lots of clear commentary that brings out many of the fine points involved in doing high-quality metalwork.
The price of the DVD is $20, and you can order from Covell Creative Metalworking online at www.covell.biz, or contact them by telephone at (800) 747-4631.
This is a reproduction grille...
This is a reproduction grille shell from Speedway Motors. Knowing the dimensions the shell will be narrowed, I'm using a straightedge to lay out the cut lines on the top and bottom of the shell with a felt-tipped marker. All measurements are made from a carefully plotted centerline
A felt-tipped marker leaves...
A felt-tipped marker leaves a line too broad for an accurate cut, so I'm laying down strips of masking tape, and the cuts will just touch the edge of the tape.
The cuts are made with an...
The cuts are made with an abrasive cut-off wheel in a pneumatic die grinder. I'm guiding the disc very carefully along the edge of the tape.
Since I'm happy with the fit...
Since I'm happy with the fit and the proportions, It's time to tack-weld the parts together. I'm using my new Miller Diversion 180 TIG welder, but MIG or oxy-acetylene would work, too.
After de-burring the edges,...
After de-burring the edges, the two parts of the grille shell are clamped together to check the alignment, and to make sure the proportions are exactly what I want. If any changes are going to be made, this is the time!
Now I'll deal with the peak...
Now I'll deal with the peak at the top of the opening for the radiator. I've cut a strip of metal from the piece I removed, and I'm holding it temporarily in place with tape. I like the peak on this part, but unfortunately, the contours next to the peak don't match the rest of the radiator opening very well. I've made a pattern from paper that shows how the filler piece needs to be re-contoured to fit properly.
I'm using a metal stretching...
I'm using a metal stretching machine to gently re-contour the filler piece. If a stretching machine is not available, the same thing could be done by hammering on-dolly on the top edge of the piece.
Now you can see that the filler...
Now you can see that the filler piece is almost perfectly shaped! It's time to scribe around the edges of the filler piece, trim away the waste material, and tack-weld the filler into place.
Using the paper template as...
Using the paper template as a guide, I can see that the piece has almost the right shape. One or two more taps on the handle of the stretcher should do the trick.
With the filler piece tacked...
With the filler piece tacked into place, the joint is worked with a hammer and dolly to level it and the joint is finish-welded. Here I'm sanding the weld bead flat.
With the top of the shell...
With the top of the shell completed, the bottom seam is welded, and the weld bead is sanded flush. I'm taking great care to preserve the crisp line around the inner edge of the opening.
I'm hammering on-dolly here...
I'm hammering on-dolly here to raise a few low spots that I noticed after the weld was sanded.
Again, a little "tune-up"...
Again, a little "tune-up" is needed with a hammer and dolly to get everything up to the correct level.
I'm hand sanding the welded...
I'm hand sanding the welded areas with 80-grit sandpaper to get a high level of finish.
I've positioned the shell...
I've positioned the shell upright to make it easy to work on the top seam. The joint was tack welded, then worked with a hammer and dolly to get perfect alignment. Now, I'm putting the finish weld on the joint.
After the weld has cooled,...
After the weld has cooled, I'll hammer the joint against a high-crown dolly to ensure the top peak of the shell has a nice, uniform radius.
And here's the finished grille...
And here's the finished grille shell. Notice that the welded joints are invisible, and how the peak at the top of the radiator opening blends in nicely with the contours next to it. Don't be afraid to tackle a job like this-it may be easier than you think!
Now the weld is sanded flush....
Now the weld is sanded flush. I'm using a 50-grit abrasive disc here on a 3-inch diameter, right-angle pneumatic sander, my favorite tool for cutting welds down flush with the base metal.