Once we pulled the front clip...
Once we pulled the front clip off, it was easy to access the eight bolts that hold the entire frontend assembly in place (plus two brake lines and the steering linkage).
Our project '51 for $15K is shaping up; at least in the suspension area. Last time we covered the installation of an 8-1/2-inch Nova rearend with the help of Chassis Engineering's bracket kit and leaf springs. This month we're focusing on the front suspension and chose to go with Chassis Engineering's bolt-on independent front suspension and crossmember kit.
Our goal with this 1951 Chevy Sport coupe is to build a safe and comfortable cruiser; something we feel good about carting the family around in and driving anywhere. Our budget is maxed out at $15,000 (including the price of the car) and we're trying to come in way under that. After the rearend update, we'd spend just over $3,300. The complete frontend kit from Chassis Engineering added another $2,108 to the pile of bills, bringing our investment to over $5,400. So far, it's been worth every Franklin.
The front suspension is centered on their bolt-in crossmember kit. This kit is based on common Mustang geometry and incorporates lower control arms rather than the OE-style strut rod system. The nice thing is how the lower crossmember and their adjustable coil spring pods surround the factory framerails. The components literally sandwich around the framerails and bolt together to provide your old Chevy with a solid and secure foundation for the independent suspension.
Another cool thing about their coil spring pods is that they're adjustable. They provide about 2-1/2 inches of adjustment. This is a huge help in trying to get the perfect stance and best geometry for your specific application.
We outfitted the rest of the front suspension with a complete component package from Chassis Engineering. This kit was supplied with tubular control arms, a manual steering rack, spindles, 11-inch rotors, calipers, shocks, coil springs, tie-rod ends, and all of the necessary hardware to bolt it all together.
There are ways we could have saved a little money in the frontend update. Again, the Chassis Engineering crossmember kit for the '49-54 Chevy is designed to work with Mustang II components, like the upper and lower control arms, shocks, and spindles. We could have searched out '74-80 Mustang arms and spindles (or Mustang II from 1974-78), however they would require a little modification to accept the 11-inch brake rotor, which we like for slowing the hulk of a car. Also, if we found some Mustang OE parts, the strut rods would require some minor modifications as well.
Not only are we up against a monetary budget, but we're also staring down a timeline as well. We don't want this to be a project that lingers on and on. Kids and commitments also keep our weekends pretty well booked and how many junkyards really still have Pintos and Mustang IIs around for parts? We felt it was best to spend a little extra money to get new parts directly from the one source that designed the entire frontend assembly. And when it comes to technical help, Chassis Engineering can answer all of our questions. After we finished bolting the new independent suspension together, the few extra bucks were well worth it.
The car is on all fours and looking good. Our next two hurdles are going to be the master cylinder for the brakes and trying to tie the factory column to the new manual rack. Also, we'll be updating the trans mount to accept our used TH350 trans. It's starting to get interesting.
We took the easy route to...
We took the easy route to disassemble the steering-a Sawzall. We are going to try to retain the factory steering column assembly so we cut it off as close as possible to the gearbox.
The frontend certainly added to cost of our project, but it's going to be worth it. After installing the used Chevy rearend, and selling the original engine and trans, we were at $3,352. The Chassis Engineering frontend kit came in at just over $2,100. We probably could have saved a couple hundred bucks going with original-style control arms, but we felt the tubular arms would be nice and good to use in the long run. Also, scrounging through the junkyards may have netted us items like spindles, but in our case, time is tight and having the correct new products that were designed to work together could save us time and effort in the long run.
We're at about $5,500 into our project and have a great, new, road-worthy suspension on our '51. The next hurdles will be to get the steering, brakes, and trans mount handled so we can move on to wiring and plumbing.
With the steering and brake...
With the steering and brake lines removed, we loosened the remaining bolts and the frontend lowered nicely in one big chunk, which was dropped off at the recycle yard.
The front framerails received...
The front framerails received a little rub down with a wire wheel before we set about fitting the Chassis Engineering crossmember. We held the assembly in place with vise-grips and aligned the half moon recesses of the frame and the new crossmember. A couple of the original boltholes lined up and allowed the crossmember to be secured.
After the eight vertical boltholes...
After the eight vertical boltholes are drilled and tightened, there are four more on each side to go. Two from the outside of the assembly to tie the upper spring pods to the crossmember.
Two more from inside that...
Two more from inside that tie the new Chassis Engineering components together. This frontend is going to be solid and secure.
After all of that drilling...
After all of that drilling and fitting, we disassembled the parts and treated them to a nice shade of green and started the reassembly.
With the Chassis Engineering...
With the Chassis Engineering crossmember lined up, the upper coil spring pods were positioned and the drill motor came out again. Beef up on your biceps, there are a total of 16 boltholes to drill. It starts with four on the top that sandwich the framerails between the Chassis Engineering crossmember and the upper pods.
We can't really explain the...
We can't really explain the green, or the fact that we're not painting the chassis. But we were really happy with new the Chassis Engineering crossmember and how stout the assembly felt.
Next on the list was the manual...
Next on the list was the manual rack-and-pinion system. New hardware is supplied, including the mount bushings. The bushings might seem long as they protrude from the rack, but this is the correct manner. Note the metal bushing inside isolator sleeve.
The rack bolted right into...
The rack bolted right into place. The steering shaft is snug to the crossmember, but there is enough room for a new Borgeson U-joint to run up to the steering column.
We moved on to the new A-arms,...
We moved on to the new A-arms, starting with the lower set. The Chassis Engineering crossmember will accept Pinto strut rods (Mustang versions work too, but need to be modified slightly) but would need to be clearanced to allow for the 11-inch rotor. The kit we chose is equipped with new tubular arms. The bushings were lubed up and a long bolt runs all the way through with a locking nut on the end.
The upper arms are supplied...
The upper arms are supplied with the cross shaft installed. Note the serious knurls on one side. These face down and grip into the upper coil spring pod. Two tee-bolts are supplied with locking nuts that secure the upper arm in place. You'll also notice the amount of adjustment the Chassis Engineering frontend delivers for alignment purposes and ride height.
Since the Chassis Engineering...
Since the Chassis Engineering frontend delivers the chance to easily modify ride height, we went with a set of spindles with stock ride height. Factory-issued '74-80 Pinto spindles will also fit with the Chassis Engineering components. The kit also comes with brackets to hold new calipers in place.
The caliper brackets are heavy...
The caliper brackets are heavy duty and well constructed and the supplied hardware matched. We added a drop of Loctite for the caliper brackets during assembly.
The chassis was raised a few...
The chassis was raised a few inches so we could drop the lower A-arms down enough to position the new coil spring. Chassis Engineering offers different rate springs depending on your engine of choice and driving plans. We raised the adjustable upper spring pod as high as it would go (which will be the lowest when the car is on the ground). With the spring held in place, we slowly raised the lower arm with the floor jack until the lower ball joint slid into the spindle.
With the brackets installed,...
With the brackets installed, we raised the spindle to the upper A-arm and snugged it to the ball joint.
Don't you just love installing...
Don't you just love installing fresh clean hardware to top off the rotor and bearing install-or is it just us?
Don't you just love installing...
Don't you just love installing fresh clean hardware to top off the rotor and bearing install-or is it just us?
The brake rotors are supplied...
The brake rotors are supplied with new shoes and hardware as well. Chassis Engineering uses GM calipers from '77-84 Nova/Camaro making pad replacements easy. Always mount the rotor with the bleeder screw on top. Air will travel up in the cylinder and help when you bleed the brakes.
Complete with the exception...
Complete with the exception of the steering, which we'll tackle in the next installment. We were impressed on how solid the entire frontend feels and installed.
It was time to get greasy...
It was time to get greasy and install the new rotors. If you don't own a bearing packer, get one. Sure you can use your hands, but every time we use the packer, we like how efficient and effective it packs the grease into the bearing.
Before compressing the spring...
Before compressing the spring fully, the new Chassis Engineering shock was slid up through the spring and mounted in place. The top shock uses a standard stud and isolators while the bottom incorporates a long through-bolt similar to the OE Pinto/Mustang II design.