Infusing style into an early post-war-styled hot rod is as easy as opening a dusty "lil' book" and peering deep to see what's pressed between the pages. Inspired metal fabrication can instill the feeling of speed into any hot rod.
The interior dash and door area of a Ford Model A are pretty basic, leaving plenty of opportunity to artistically alter its original configuration. To add just a dash of speed and style to the area, the team at the Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop in Greenfield Center, New York, set out to blend the dash and door tops together with the sleek look reminiscent of those seen in '33-36 Ford roadsters. Working with a Brookville Roadster '29, the team began by adding plenty of momentum to its persona by installing a Sellers Equipped windshield and Brookville '32 Ford dash. This prior work included the removal of the stock eyebrow section of the body, which was reworked to accommodate the new windshield as well as peak to the back of the cowl being pie-cut and laid back.
Matt Schmidt, of Rolling Bones...
Matt Schmidt, of Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop, uses 2-inch masking tape applied to the end of the dash and windshield post area. This acts as a release agent for the upcoming plastic mold.
Getting started, team member Matt Schmidt prepared the area to the side of the dash where he would create a mold for the first transition of rolling the dash into the door top. Using 2-inch masking tape, he covered the work area, since the tape would act as a perfect release agent for the mold once completed. After preparing a small amount of plastic body filler, he began to apply it to the area in gradual stages, allowing plenty of drying time between the layers. This step allowed Schmidt to fill the area and build it up in just the right places. Once the plastic had hardened, he followed with a combination flat and half-round file to sculpt the gradual transition from the dash to the beginning of the door top. When satisfied with the mold, it was carefully pried from its place and used as a visual guide to create the panel from steel. Schmidt proceeded with 22-gauge flat stock, cold rolled mild steel to fashion a filler piece. Using a pair of metal shears, he cut out the piece, making sure it was larger than required to allow for needed trimming in obtaining the exact shape. To add a graceful bend to the steel, Schmidt worked with a sandbag and a curved dolly while test-fitting the piece to the dash numerous times till the exact transition was found. With the basic shape attained, he trimmed the piece for a better fit using metal shears and continued with a number of body hammers to establish the correct contours to the end of the dash.
Schmidt forged on to stretch the steel to create some needed compound curves using a homespun anvil anchored in a bench vise while working the filler piece with a blunt point and finishing hammer. Once satisfied with the piece, he used his Millermatic MIG welder to anchor the piece. Wearing eye protection, the welds were then ground smooth using an air-driven disc grinder topped with a 50-grit disc followed by a die grinder.
Schmidt applied a liberal...
Schmidt applied a liberal dose of plastic body filler to the end of the dash and inner windshield post to set up the initial area to be molded; he used a number of layers to achieve the proper depth.
Once the filler had set up,...
Once the filler had set up, he used a combination flat and curved file to craft the transitional shape.
The completed mock-up is now...
The completed mock-up is now ready to be popped off to use as a visual guide to fashion the needed shape from steel.
Schmidt used the plastic mold...
Schmidt used the plastic mold as an example to rough-cut a section of 22-gauge steel for the general shape for the filler panel.
Schmidt used a sandbag and...
Schmidt used a sandbag and dolly to lay the initial curvature into the steel for one of its many test-fits to the dash area.
With the general curve in...
With the general curve in place, shears were used to trim down the filler panel to its proper size.
To properly round the edge...
To properly round the edge of the filler panel to the end of the dash, the small ball-end of a hammer was used to continue to work the proper contour into place.
Using a home-spun anvil, Schmidt...
Using a home-spun anvil, Schmidt used a hammer to stretch the steel and form the needed compound curves to properly match the end side of the dash.
Schmidt first MIG welded the...
Schmidt first MIG welded the filler panel in place. He then followed with a combination of hand files, a disc grinder, and a number of die grinders to complete the job. (Be sure to wear proper eye protection.)
The transition between the...
The transition between the dash and inner windshield post area is seamless and begins to establish the transitional flow into the door top area.
A 4-foot section of standard...
A 4-foot section of standard 1-3/4-inch steel exhaust pipe was used as the base to form the extension. Schmidt added a curve to the pipe to follow the flow of the stock door top.
With trimming marked, the...
With trimming marked, the pipe was first split on the bottom side using an air-driven cutoff-wheel.
The pipe was then laid on...
The pipe was then laid on top of the door to mark the cuts needed for the overall length as well as the initial area to be flattened once the pipe was pried open.
Using a flat dolly, a rubber...
Using a flat dolly, a rubber hammer is used to flatten out the marked curvature of the pipe without denting it. The pipe was worked from front to rear as it was gradually opened up.
The pipe to the door top was...
The pipe to the door top was checked numerous times so as not to distort the curve of the pipe to the door top. One of the tools used to spread the pipe was a pair of duck-billed Vise-Grips; gradually worked up and down the steel to create an even opening.
Similar to the plastic mold...
Similar to the plastic mold of the dash, one was also crafted for the door top. The steel filler panel is being compared to the molded unit for continued fabrication in the shaping stage. The guide line marks where the door top contour will meet the corner of the dash.
With the transition piece from the dash completed, Schmidt focused on the gradual sweeping flow needed to bridge this area to the door top. Working in the same fashion used to create the initial dash end mold, he proceeded with tape and plastic filler to design the transition atop the door. Using this as a guide, he selected a 4-foot section of 1-3/4-inch steel exhaust pipe to act as a solid base. After bending the pipe to match the factory curve of the door top, he marked it for trimming and where it needed to be split open to begin the shaping process. While anchored in a bench vise, he used an air-driven cutoff wheel to make the initial incision to split the pipe section open. Using an anchored flat dolly, Schmidt proceeded to open up the pipe by hammering both of the separated sides flat with a rubber hammer from front to back. This prevented the pipe section from becoming dented during the process. To open the pipe even further, he used a pair of duck-billed Vise-Grips parallel to each other to additionally stretch the section open. As the pipe changed its shape, Schmidt checked the section to the door top numerous times to ensure the curve to the top of the pipe did not become distorted. This is a gradual process that takes plenty of time to get right.
Once comfortable with the fit to the door top, it was time to begin forming the forward end (which will meet the dash filler piece) to add the needed graceful curves and form the transition. For this step, Schmidt used various anchored dollies to gradually stretch the steel while adding curves and depth through the use of a number of body hammers with different ends. Again, this is a process that takes time, working the steel and placing the filler piece atop the door countless times to aid in its shaping to create just the right contour.
With a variety of anvils and...
With a variety of anvils and hammers, reshape the steel pipe to form the proper contour for the top of the door as it transitions to the end of the dash. Take your time to achieve just the right lines.
Once satisfied with the overall shape, Schmidt first reinstalled the Sellers Equipped windshield and then marked the exterior of the new door top with masking tape to show a delicate sweep from fore to aft. He cut the excess metal off using a plasma cutter and ground the edges smooth with a small disc grinder. Wanting to achieve the correct contour for the inside curve of the door, a relief-cut was made using a disc grinder to the inner top edge and it was rolled inboard. Focusing on the inner portion of the door top, a masking tape line was run from the end of the dash filler piece rearward to follow a gradual tapered line. The door top was then removed, trimmed with a plasma cutter, and its edge ground smooth with a disc grinder. Knowing that interior panels would need an anchoring point, Schmidt marked a "fold-line" on the door top, which would need to be bent inward toward the door. Since this was a compound curve, to accomplish the bend a number of relief cuts were marked and carefully cut using an air-driven cutoff wheel with the piece in a bench vise. With the curve intact, Schmidt used a flat anvil secured in a bench vise to bend the tabs over to the correct angle. After test-fitting the door top in place, it was again removed for the tabs to be MIG welded together. It's imperative to allow ample cooling between the welds so as to not distort the steel. A disc grinder was used to smooth out all of the finished welds. Once a few remaining filler pieces were fashioned and added to the front inside top hinge area of the door, the new door top was welded into place and all welds were ground smooth with a disc grinder topped with a 50-grit disc. The completed job added newfound personality to the interior of the Model A by incorporating plenty of sleek styling with the flow of the '32 Ford dash into the door tops.
This look-down shot lets you...
This look-down shot lets you see how the original steel pipe has been reworked to curve and flow into the filler panel at the end of the dash.
To achieve the right contour...
To achieve the right contour for the inside curve of the door, a relief cut was added to the inner top edge and rolled inboard since the metal could not be stretched any further.
Once the proper shape was...
Once the proper shape was attained, the relief cut was MIG welded and then ground smooth using a small air-driven disc grinder.
The new door top was laid...
The new door top was laid into place and marked for additional trimming to establish the correct gap between the dash filler panel extension and the door top.
With the Sellers Equipped...
With the Sellers Equipped windshield in place and the new door top taped into position, the final exterior trim is determined. A tape line is used to establish the cut needed. Remove the piece and use a plasma cutter to trim the area followed by a disc grinder to clean up the edge.
From inside the car with the...
From inside the car with the new door top in place, masking tape was used to establish a gradual tapered line from the front of the door rearward. The piece was then removed and trimmed using a plasma cutter. Note the marked fold line where the steel will need to be modified for future interior panel needs.
In order to bend the steel...
In order to bend the steel on the fold line with its compound curve, a number of relief-cuts were made to the panel using an air-driven cut-off wheel. With the panel back in place, it's easy to see that the curve is intact.
The relief cuts created a...
The relief cuts created a 3/16-inch gap to allow interior panels to be tucked into place. With the panel removed and a secured anvil, a vise and hammer were used to properly bend the relief-cut tabs over at the correct angle.
With all final finessing complete,...
With all final finessing complete, a MIG welder was used to weld all of the gaps followed by a disc grinder to smooth out the completed surface.
The one remaining area needing...
The one remaining area needing attention was the front hinge side of the door where the new door top ended since the spot was wide open.
It's easy to see just how...
It's easy to see just how dramatic the completed changes are. Propelling the original basic lines into those of a graceful sweep gives the car a newfound raciness, flowing perfectly with the Sellers Equipped windshield and Brookville '32 Ford dash.
A small filler piece was crafted...
A small filler piece was crafted using 22-gauge steel to close the area. The driver's door is shown alongside as a comparison. The pieces were MIG-welded into place and ground smooth using small die grinders.