We’ve come to the conclusion that the only way our project cars are going to be built in a reasonable length of time is if the powers that be (read editor Brian Brennan) institute the 20-hour work week or days suddenly become 48 hours long but then anyone building a street rod has probably had similar thoughts.

While we usually try to follow a logical sequence when building a car, we’ve done a few things seeming out of order. A case in point is painting the frame while there are still a few things that will be done to it. As an example we are going to be adding a rollcage that has to be welded to the ’rails. However, once the ’cage is in place the body can’t be removed so the decision was made to paint the frame because there will be areas we can’t get to with the body in place. We dropped the body on and will add the rollcage, then spot in the paint where necessary.

With the decision made to squirt the chassis ourselves the next problem was deciding where to do it. Since our options were limited we decided to build a temporary booth. We built a wood framework, assembling it with carriage bolts so it can be easily disassembled, then covered it with clear plastic. Of course by the time we added filters to pull in clean air, a couple of makeshift doors so we could get in and out, and an exhaust fan, the booth turned out to be a bigger deal than it probably should have been. We could have thrown plastic over everything that needed to be protected but now we have a semi-clean place to paint that also keeps overspray from getting on everything in the shop.

To prep the frame for paint we decided to have it sandblasted, as any other method of preparation would have taken too much time. Once the frame was clean, the next decision was how much effort to invest in making it pretty. We had added a Fatman stub to mount the solid front axle, but the rest of the frame is just like what you would expect a stock frame to look like. Since this isn’t a show car we decided to forgo hours of welding, grinding, filling, and sanding, and paint the frame satin black as it will hide a multitude of sins compared to a gloss finish. We used a product called Rust Seal from KBS Coatings because we’ve found it to be perfect for painting the chassis of cars that are driven since it requires a minimum of preparation and it’s tough as nails so it resists chipping. For those without the ability to spray paint, most KBS products can be brushed and flow out without any brush marks. It should be noted that in some areas brushing paint might be the only legal method of application unless the material used is VOC (volatile organic compounds) compliant.

With the booth built, the frame sandblasted and painted, we were ready to drop the body on the frameall we needed were some body mount bushings. We went to the Suspension Restoration Parts’ website and found they listed polyurethane bushings in every conceivable size and shape.

In most cases body mounts are made of 70-A durometer, however we chose firmer bushings made from 88-A durometer material designed for off-road, drag race, and other extreme use.

RamRodder is back to the top of our priority list; next we’ll start on the rollcage and install the floor that was made some time ago. Now if we can just get Brennan to go for that 20-hour workweek ...

SOURCE
KBS Coatings
2502 Beech St.
Suite 100
Valparaiso
IN  46383
888-531-4527
www.kbscoatings.com
Suspension Restoration Parts
209-578-5101
www.suspension.com
HarborFreight
3491 Mission Oaks Blvd
Camarillo
CA  93011
800-444-3353
www.harborfreight.com