While the thought of simply...
While the thought of simply rolling a new chassis under your shoebox Ford and bolting everything in place is a great concept, there is a bit of work to be done before you get to tighten any bolts.
When Ford finally introduced the first all-new car after World War II the styling was revolutionary. The front fenders had risen to meet the hood, and the grille opening now spanned the full width of the car. Rear fenders were non-existent as the quarter-panel and fender became one long smooth panel. All traces of a running board were gone and the resulting look was that of a modern, sleek car with all the wheels tucked neatly under the body. It was a remarkable transformation from the old-fashioned shape of the ’48 Ford; these new cars looked fast sitting still. And yet as dynamic as the styling was, there was also a certain slab-side appearance that won the ’49-51 Ford the moniker of shoebox Ford.
The Art Morrison frame provides...
The Art Morrison frame provides modern front and rear suspension, rack-and-pinion steering, disc brakes, and a chassis that will handle all the horsepower you could ever want on the street. However, things like body mounts were not included on our frame, meaning we would have to locate the body and build mounts.
These cars were immediate hits with the general publicand that included both hot rodders and customizers. The demand for truly new cars after World War II meant strong sales and these new cars were constructed well so there were plenty of them on the used car market. Fifties and early ’60s high school parking lots were filled with these simple cars and it seems every hot rodder has a shoebox or two in the closet including this writer.
And so it is little wonder the shoebox Ford is enjoying a strong resurgence and like all things hot rod, the aftermarket is responding with great new products to improve suspension and power, along with reproduction parts to help complete the project.
The ’49-51 Ford employed independent front suspension and a solid rear axle with leaf springs and the chassis was strong enough to handle substantial power increases. The independent front suspension employed kingpins, coil springs, and a worm and a roller steering box, which was modern for the day, but hardly the crisp steering and handling we have become accustomed to over the years.
When John Kocsis delivered...
When John Kocsis delivered this nearly rust-free ’51 Ford to Rodcrafters it was resting on the Art Morrison frame, but no body mounts had been located or fabricated to mount the body to the frame.
Due to the configuration of the ’49-51 Ford frame there is no simple way to upgrade the suspension to modern standards. There are disc brake kits and a late-model steering box will improve things a bit, but if a truly modern front suspension is in your plan you have three choices. Companies like Fatman Fabrication makes a front frame stub that can be welded to the existing frame and provide you with modern Mustang IIstyle suspension for an affordable price. You can find a late-model donor car and graft your own front clip to the car, or you can opt to buy a complete new chassis from a company like Art Morrison.
When John Kocsis decided it was time to build a contemporary custom he located a very nice ’51 Ford sedan that was nearly rust free, no small feat for a car that spent its entire life in New Jersey. Kocsis knew modern suspension was a must for the car, so he considered his options. In the end he decided he could sell the very nice ’51 chassis and Flathead driveline and recoup some of the cost of a complete new frame. This would solve both front and rear suspension problems and provide ample room for that new Chevrolet motor and transmission. A call was placed to Lobeck’s V8 Shop Hot Rod Parts and a new Art Morrison chassis was ordered and delivered directly to Kocsis’ door.
Because of the lowered ride...
Because of the lowered ride height designed into the chassis, the rear trunk floor was removed to allow the body to rest on the frame. The higher kick-up and crossmember protrude up into the trunk area. Also note the inner wheel tubs had to be cut for tire clearance.
By ordering the full replacement chassis, the desired stance is built into the chassis using your specifications for final ride height. The mandrel-formed 2x4 framerails and associated crossmembers make for one very stout frame that will handle modern horsepower with ease. There is not rust to remove, no holes to patch, and no suspension to locate and graft, making this new chassis a prime candidate for powdercoating or paint without the expense of sandblasting or dipping an old frame. There are a lot of good things to be said about using an all-new frame.
Here we can see the pieces...
Here we can see the pieces that were removed from the trunk floor. Kocsis did this cutting just to get the car on the frame, knowing it would be neatly trimmed and replaced later.
There is a seam in the factory...
There is a seam in the factory floor that runs almost in the center of the rear wheels. The spot welds were drilled out from this seam to remove the trunk floor.
The tires and wheels fill...
The tires and wheels fill the wheel houses nicely, the wheels will move outward about 1/4-inch when the brakes are installed. Coilover shocks keep thing neat, clean, and adjustable.
It was apparent the body was...
It was apparent the body was not resting in the proper location as the rear tires were well to the rear of the wheel opening on the body. It is important to use the final wheel and tire combination when locating the body so you are working with the proper diameter wheel and tire.
A quick check of the wheelbase...
A quick check of the wheelbase revealed the wheelbase was at 115-3/4 rather than the factory 114 inches. You may have to vary a bit from the factory wheelbase to center modern wheels and tires in the vintage fender openings.
The convenience of a lift...
The convenience of a lift sure makes adjustments and test-fitting easy. We raised the body up to make adjustments to the wheelbase.
There is really no fore and...
There is really no fore and aft adjustment to the front suspension as all points are fixed, so no adjustments were made up front.
The rear suspension has plenty...
The rear suspension has plenty of adjustment, and we noticed the rear bars had the rod ends screwed all the way out. We adjusted the bars in over 1 inch to arrive at the factory 114-inch wheelbase.
After centering the body over...
After centering the body over the rear wheels we mounted a front fender to be certain the wheel was centered up front too. It is imperative to get the front wheel location perfect, as there is no adjustment. The rear wheel could still be moved forward or back a bit by adjusting the four bars.
Larry Shoaf measured off the...
Larry Shoaf measured off the front suspension to locate a piece of 1-inch box tubing. This tubing was clamped perfectly square to the suspension points. The bar is used to make triangulated measurements to the front body mounts. This ensures the body is squarely placed on the frame.
Lots of measuring, plenty...
Lots of measuring, plenty of “eye balling”, and finally we felt certain the front wheels were in the proper location. Remember this look will change a bit when the weight of the motor brings the front suspension down to ride height.
Measurements were taken from...
Measurements were taken from common points around the car from front, rear, and side to ensure the body was perfectly square on the frame, and here we are checking the rear corners. The rear framehorns will be trimmed later as Art Morrison leaves extra framerail material on both ends.
It sure helps to start with...
It sure helps to start with a super-solid car like Kocsis brought to Rodcrafters. A structurally solid car makes accurate mounting much easier.
Those three holes in the floor...
Those three holes in the floor all lead to body bolt locations that align themselves atop the Art Morrison frame perfectly. The fit and fabrication of the Art Morrison chassis was first class.
More body mounts are found...
More body mounts are found in the trunk. Locating the exact placement on the rear crossmember is done with a simple transfer punch.
A couple of lines with a marker...
A couple of lines with a marker will make it a lot easier to find that small center punch dimple after you lift the body off the frame.
After center-punching the...
After center-punching the through-the-floor body mounts to the new Art Morrison chassis, Larry drills a pilot hole.
Next a step drill is used...
Next a step drill is used to open up the pilot hole to the proper bolt diameter; in this case we are using 3/8-inch bolts. Then the step drill is carefully pushed down on the next step to form a counter-sunk ring for the flanged nut.
If you don’t have a step drill...
If you don’t have a step drill in your toolbox it is time to go get one. These drills work wonders in metal.
Here we can see the slight...
Here we can see the slight counter sink ring formed by the step drill. As it turns out this is perfect for placing a flanged nut flush with the chassis.
We placed one flanged nut...
We placed one flanged nut in the framerail opening with another nut next to illustrate how the flange works. This is a simple way to mount a flush thread to any metal surface.
However, purchasing a complete new chassis does not always mean your body will simply bolt onto the frame and away you go. Almost all ’48 and older reproduction frames include body mounts so you truly can bolt on the original Ford body, but in the case of the shoebox frame Kocsis received, there were no body mounts or locations so mounting the body to the frame became a job for a professional. Enter Larry Shoaf and the team at Rodcrafters in Welcome, North Carolina.
After all the body mounts were fabricated, a new trunk floor and wheel tubs were fabricated and welded in place, completing the install of the body on the new Art Morrison chassis. In the end Kocsis had just what he wanted: a new modern chassis under his shoebox Ford that provides a strong platform for the rest of the build. Follow along for a detailed step by step on the body mounting process; you might decide your old car is ready for a new frame too.
A quick weld with the TIG...
A quick weld with the TIG welder and we have a strong, flush threaded nut in place for the body mount. This process was repeated 10 times on the car for all the through-the-floor bolts.
When John received the frame it became apparent the trunk floor would have to be removed to allow the body to rest on the new frame. He trimmed out sheetmetal until the car was resting on the Art Morrison frame, then rolled the body and frame into the trailer for the trip to Rodcrafters.
As it turns out the fabrication of the body mounts is something within reach of the skilled homebuilder and we’d like to think that after seeing the adjoining photos that task will be even easier. Ford was pretty serious about mounting their bodies to the frame in 1951 with no less than 23 bolts holding the body to the frame. The Art Morrison framerails align directly under 13 of these mounting points, but 10 other mounts must be fabricated to bolt the body to the frame. These body mounts consist of outriggers extending out to the rocker panel area on both sides of the car and a pair of firewall braces mounted on the outside of the framerail just forward of the firewall. Basic fabrication skills and welding are involved, but the most important thing is properly locating the body perfectly on the frame.
A quick peek through the hole...
A quick peek through the hole shows the body is lined up quite nicely; the camera angle is distorting the center location just a bit.
When it comes time to locate the body on the frame it sure helps if you have a lift in your garage; if you don’t, plan on having a few floor jacks and a handful of friends on board as the body will be lifted on and off the chassis several times. The first step is to measure the wheelbase on the frame. Since the rear suspension is adjustable, it is possible to have the incorrect wheelbase by as much as an inch or more. We measured and adjusted the rear suspension until we had the factory 114-inch wheelbase setting. Now it was time to locate the body on the frame.
After the preliminary trial fit it became apparent John had not trimmed enough metal out of the rear portion of the car, the inner wheel houses had to be cut out for tire clearance and the entire trunk floor was removed up to the factory seam located just behind where the rear seat back is located. After cutting the wheelhouses out, the body was lowered over the frame.
Pieces of wood 5/16-inch thick...
Pieces of wood 5/16-inch thick were used to simulate the rubber insulators that will be used when the body is mounted to the frame for the last time. The wood blocks were inserted between all the frame top mount holes prior to fabricating any of the outboard body mounts.
The front fenders were bolted to the car and then the chassis was rolled back to a clear area where we could eyeball the wheel and tire location. Since there are no locator holes in the frame, positioning the body on the chassis becomes a combination of moving the body until the wheels are centered in their respective openings and then taking careful measurements from common points on the body and chassis to ensure the body is square on the frame. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, but once again this is the most important part of the project as centering wheels in the fender openings is critical. Once we were certain the body was properly located, fabrication of body mounts could begin.
We began by locating four of the body mount holes that aligned with the top of the frame. The center of the holes was transferred to the top of the framerail with a transfer punch, the holes were then drilled in the frame and threaded inserts were welded into the framerail. A wood shim simulated the body mounting rubber and the body was lowered back on the frame and bolted in place. More measuring ensued to be certain the body was properly located before we began to build the outriggers for the other body mounts.
Templates were cut first,...
Templates were cut first, then 1/4-inch flat stock was used to form the side body mounts. There are 10 different outrigger mounts that must be fabricated.
Shoaf opted to build the new...
Shoaf opted to build the new mounts to the rusty body mounts first, later he will replace the rusted mounts with new units from EMS. These old mounts were still strong enough for location purposes. Certain the body boltholes line up, the brackets were finish-welded to the Art Morrison framerail with a TIG welder.
Here are the new EMS body...
Here are the new EMS body mounts; they will be installed to the new frame mounts and to the Ford floorpan, ensuring a perfect fit between the body and the new Art Morrison chassis.
First the long piece of flat...
First the long piece of flat stock is tack welded in place. Note that the body bolthole has already been drilled in the piece; this ensures it will align with the body mount.
On the front mount, located...
On the front mount, located behind the front wheel the lower piece mounts to the rocker panel body mount, while the small tab in the picture is for an inboard body bolt. Both pieces are aligned with the holes in the body, and then tack-welded in place.
Shoaf designed a single gusset...
Shoaf designed a single gusset to connect the two tabs, making them both strong and good looking.
Certain the body boltholes...
Certain the body boltholes line up, the brackets were finish-welded to the Art Morrison framerail with a TIG welder.
This well-designed body mount...
This well-designed body mount is very sturdy. Ford used 23 body mounts on their shoebox Fords, they were serious about attaching a body to the frame in 1951.
The center outrigger mount...
The center outrigger mount is similar to the forward mount but the upper tab is located on the inside of the framerail for this mount. Once again a gusset stiffens the longer outrigger body mount.
On the rear outrigger, which...
On the rear outrigger, which is located just in front of the rear tire, Shoaf opted to use a piece of box tubing and a gusset as a mount. The mount is strong and simple by design.
Here we can see the rear outrigger...
Here we can see the rear outrigger fitting perfectly into the stock body mount. Once again wood simulates the rubber body mount pads.
The center outrigger fits...
The center outrigger fits perfectly too, and note how the slightly curved gusset matches the line of the body mount, and a nice detail.
The front body mounts were...
The front body mounts were positioned right at the joint of the front suspension clip and the mandrel-bent framerails. Two simple pieces of angle iron were fabricated to act as body mounts here.
The body mounting kit from...
The body mounting kit from Dennis Carpenter Reproductions was very complete and includes three different style body mount rubbers for proper fit.
With the body securely mounted...
With the body securely mounted to the frame and the doors and decklid fitting perfectly, it was time to install the new wheel houses and trunk floor. First Shoaf fabricated the new inner wheelhouses.
The inner wheelhouses are...
The inner wheelhouses are carefully fit to the inner body and tack welded in place. This will not infringe on the rear seating at all, but wider tires now have ample room.
The rear floor panel is a...
The rear floor panel is a relatively simple piece fabricated from 18-gauge steel with beads to help stiffen the panel.
Here we can see the trunk...
Here we can see the trunk panel installed with sheetmetal screws holding it in place prior to the finish welding. After welding, the screws are removed and the holes welded closed.
With the body off the frame...
With the body off the frame we can see all the body mounts in place. The Art Morrison frame is a great piece that delivers your own desired ride height with modern suspension and a strong chassis.
And here’s the finished project,...
And here’s the finished project, the body is now securely mounted to the chassis and with that new frame supporting the body it’s time to chop the top 5 inches. Stay tuned as we will be bringing you a step by step on the top chopping process in the very near future.