The first step was to cut...
The first step was to cut through the package shelf bracing. This will allow the window to move forward and provide a perfect clamping area.
Chopping a ’50s car is a tremendous amount of work, and watching someone with an equally tremendous amount of talent like Larry Shoaf really makes it look easy. But don’t be deceived; this is a serious modification that takes a lot of thought and know-how. But having said that, if you work slowly and carefully and never allow any fit to be called “close enough” you can still chop a top at home with fairly minimal equipment. Basically a MIG welder, cut-off wheels, clamps, and basic measuring tools and a box load of patience is all that’s required to chop a top. Making all cuts in exactly the same location side to side and front to rear goes a long way to keeping things aligned and having several sets of helping hands is imperative for fitting the top to the car. Follow along with the photos and you just might be willing to tackle the job in your home shop. Regardless of whether you chop the top at home or have it done by a professional shop, it will definitely give your shoebox Ford a whole new attitude.
With the window cut free from...
With the window cut free from the body it is moved forward and leaned down on top to meet the roof skin. The gap is closing on top and widening on the bottom.
After marking the starting...
After marking the starting point’s equal distance from the center of roof, a cut-off wheel makes two relief cuts allowing the roof panel to move up. Note the rear window panel is now fitted under the roof skin.
Two more relief cuts were...
Two more relief cuts were required on the outer sides of the roof skin but now the roof is resting on the window contour with no pressure point. Next the void between the decklid and lower rear window must be filled.
There was a sizable gap to...
There was a sizable gap to be filled, and before any welding took place we had to determine if it would look good filled, or is it too big?
Using poster board to bridge...
Using poster board to bridge the gap gave us a good visual idea of how the filler panel would look. The gap looks smaller when filled and the poster board was used as a template for the new panels.
A piece of 18-gauge sheetmetal...
A piece of 18-gauge sheetmetal was used to form the filler panels; a left and right panel was fabricated. A little work with the English wheel put a gentle radius on each panel.
There was a slight lip where...
There was a slight lip where the original panel curled up to meet the rear window. This small lip was flattened with good hammer and dolly technique.