Dropping the top 5 inches...
Dropping the top 5 inches on a ’51 Ford will take you from a stodgy sedan to a sinister cruiser in a couple of weeks.
In the last issue (August 2011) we stopped by the Rodcrafters Shop in Welcome, North Carolina, to follow along as Larry Shoaf chopped the top on John Kocsis’ 1951 Ford sedan. In that issue we braced the body, marked the cut lines, and removed the roof. We managed to get the roof back on the car and the A-pillars welded back together, along with expanding the windshield opening 1 inch before we ran out of time and space. Raising the top of the windshield opening 1-inch visually “un-chopped” the front view just a bit, but the side profile still benefits from the full 5-inch chop, and the windshield and side windows are about the same size. Now we’ll finish the job, starting at repositioning the rear window.
When we left off last month...
When we left off last month (August 2011) we had cut the top and had the A-pillars re-attached. We opened up the windshield area by raising the upper opening 1 inch.
At the rear of the car Shoaf cut through the package shelf braces and around the bottom of the rear window between the window and the decklid. This would allow the rear window to move ahead and tilt forward on an angle to meet the roof skin. Since the rear window was moving forward, the package shelf braces work perfectly for clamping the window in place.
Even with the window clamped in place the gap between the top of the window and the roof was almost 2 inches, and while it appeared to be a large gap, four carefully measured slices in the roof skin brought the top and the window together. A simple board was to support the inner roof. This held the center of the roof in place and prevented sagging. The panels were then cut and clamped until they aligned. The window panel was slipped under the roof skin as the window panel still held the stock contour, ensuring the roof would flow like an original.
As you can see the rear window...
As you can see the rear window must be moved forward and leaned forward too. This may look like an insurmountable gap, but fear not, it will all work out.
With the window and roof aligned there was a 4-inch void to fill between the bottom of the window and the existing panel in front of the decklid. Once again this looked like a huge void, and before any sheetmetal was cut Shoaf filled it with a poster board template to be sure it would look OK. Interestingly enough, when the void was filled it didn’t look large at all; actually the added panel gave the car a very pleasant roofline, the added space between the window and decklid made the car look a bit more coupe-like. Pleased with the look, 18-gauge sheetmetal filler panels were fabricated and tack-welded in place.
Next the long stretch of sheetmetal...
Next the long stretch of sheetmetal between the decklid and the window was sliced with a cut-off wheel. Work slowly and follow a straight line, it will make forming the filler panel easier.
The rear corners of the quarter windows were cut out and the corner pieces removed earlier were reshaped to fit the new rear window. With the new quarter window shape completed, the panels on either side of the rear window were contoured down to meet the quarter-panels.
Finally the B-pillars were reunited with the front of the quarter window, taking care to have a pleasing radius in each corner and that both sides of the car were exactly the same. Completing the fabrication was attaching the door tops to match the new slanted pillar and align up front with the modified A-pillar. A small filler panel in front of the top front corner of the quarter window finished the B-pillar transformation.
The first step was to cut...
The first step was to cut through the package shelf bracing. This will allow the window to move forward and provide a perfect clamping area.
Chopping a ’50s car is a tremendous amount of work, and watching someone with an equally tremendous amount of talent like Larry Shoaf really makes it look easy. But don’t be deceived; this is a serious modification that takes a lot of thought and know-how. But having said that, if you work slowly and carefully and never allow any fit to be called “close enough” you can still chop a top at home with fairly minimal equipment. Basically a MIG welder, cut-off wheels, clamps, and basic measuring tools and a box load of patience is all that’s required to chop a top. Making all cuts in exactly the same location side to side and front to rear goes a long way to keeping things aligned and having several sets of helping hands is imperative for fitting the top to the car. Follow along with the photos and you just might be willing to tackle the job in your home shop. Regardless of whether you chop the top at home or have it done by a professional shop, it will definitely give your shoebox Ford a whole new attitude.
With the window cut free from...
With the window cut free from the body it is moved forward and leaned down on top to meet the roof skin. The gap is closing on top and widening on the bottom.
After marking the starting...
After marking the starting point’s equal distance from the center of roof, a cut-off wheel makes two relief cuts allowing the roof panel to move up. Note the rear window panel is now fitted under the roof skin.
Two more relief cuts were...
Two more relief cuts were required on the outer sides of the roof skin but now the roof is resting on the window contour with no pressure point. Next the void between the decklid and lower rear window must be filled.
There was a sizable gap to...
There was a sizable gap to be filled, and before any welding took place we had to determine if it would look good filled, or is it too big?
Using poster board to bridge...
Using poster board to bridge the gap gave us a good visual idea of how the filler panel would look. The gap looks smaller when filled and the poster board was used as a template for the new panels.
A piece of 18-gauge sheetmetal...
A piece of 18-gauge sheetmetal was used to form the filler panels; a left and right panel was fabricated. A little work with the English wheel put a gentle radius on each panel.
There was a slight lip where...
There was a slight lip where the original panel curled up to meet the rear window. This small lip was flattened with good hammer and dolly technique.
The new panel was carefully...
The new panel was carefully fitted to the opening. Panel clamps and Vice Grips hold it in place while a MIG welder tack welds the panel in 1-inch gaps.
The panel has just enough...
The panel has just enough radius to provide a pleasing transition from the stock panel up the lower window. The added metal also gives the car the illusion of having longer quarter-panels since the roof is moved forward.
Before the area alongside...
Before the area alongside the rear window is filled, the lower rear corner of the quarter window must be completed.
The original corner of the...
The original corner of the window was given two relief cuts and it was then reshaped by bending it gently around a piece of 2-inch pipe. Bend a bit, test-fit, and bend some more until the radius is just right.
After the proper radius is...
After the proper radius is achieved the piece is cut and fit to the body lines and tack welded in place.
The side panels on either...
The side panels on either side of the rear window were filled with two triangle shaped pieces of sheetmetal. Welding is simplified by taking extra time to carefully fit all the filler panels.
After finish-welding the filler...
After finish-welding the filler seams with a TIG welder, Larry Shoaf used a grinder to smooth the welds. A lighter grit grinder will provide more metal finishing before primer is applied.
With the external skin all...
With the external skin all put back together it was time to connect all the internal body braces. Shoebox Fords are built stout and here we can see the inside corners of the quarter windows are fitted perfectly back in place.
The canted B-pillar was the...
The canted B-pillar was the last remaining fabrication and the post is reinstalled with the front line meeting the bottom and the top of the cut. The pillar is on a pleasing angle.
All that is required on the...
All that is required on the bottom is a very small wedge-shaped filler piece to fill the opening caused by leaning the B-pillar forward. A single relief cut on both pieces smooths out the radius.
A pie-cut was made in the...
A pie-cut was made in the front of the door and then the door stub was carefully bent downward until it aligned perfectly with the A-pillar.
The top of the doorframe was...
The top of the doorframe was cut to match the 5-inch chop and welded to the lower piece that was bent back to match the A-pillar. Note the top corner of the window frame was also reshaped.
After the two pieces are TIG-welded...
After the two pieces are TIG-welded together the filler panel is ready to be trimmed to fit. There’s a slight curve on top of this piece to space out off the panel for proper alignment.
The rear of the door window...
The rear of the door window frame was cut free and fitted to match the new angle of the B-pillar. Note that all the window corners have a nice clean radius that looks like a factory contour.
Here we can see the new filler...
Here we can see the new filler panel tack-welded in place. The top of the door has been rounded and the door gap is kept uniform all the way around the door.
The B-pillar is really taking...
The B-pillar is really taking shape and the doorpost matches it perfectly. Paint sticks were used between the upper doorframe and the B-pillar to ensure ample room for future weatherstripping.
The finished product; some...
The finished product; some welding and metal finishing to be done before the final bodywork but at this point there’s little doubt that all the work was worth the effort.
The final piece of the puzzle...
The final piece of the puzzle is a small filler piece that goes on top of the B-pillar. This fills the area between the reshaped doorframe and new angled B-pillar; fabricated from two pieces of 18-gauge steel.