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 Ninety percent of a bodyline...  Ninety percent of a bodyline can be done by eye, especially when the steel underneath can be used as a guide. I sanded the filler with 40 grit, then 80 grit, then applied a heavy coat of matte black from an aerosol can to use as a guide. Here I’m using 150-grit paper to fine-tune the lower part of the bodyline.  When sanding with a block,...  When sanding with a block, work at 30-45 degrees to the direction of the block. The arrows indicate how this curved surface was sanded in two directions. This prevents the edges of the block creating small grooves in the filler surface.  Again using 150 grit on a...  Again using 150 grit on a block, I’m tackling the upper section. Finally I moved to the bodyline itself, though it transpired this needed more filler.  Here’s one front fender after...  Here’s one front fender after a couple hours of work. Bodylines are notoriously difficult to fill and keep straight, but almost all old cars have them, so here’s the way I tackle them. It’s worked for me for nearly 30 years.  Two parallel lines of masking...  Two parallel lines of masking tape were used, with the filler applied between, then the tape removed before the filler hardened. Once cured, the filler was carefully rubbed down, then the lower edge of the bodyline radiused by wrapping 150-grit paper over the sharp crease and dragging it along the length of the fender.  Obviously mocked up after...  Obviously mocked up after the lower section was sanded, and after I’d added more filler above the line, this illustrates how I apply the filler to the bodyline in the first place. I cut a section from an old spreader to mimic the shape I’m trying to replicate, then used that to spread the filler.  One fender done, one to go....  One fender done, one to go. With the exception of the area on the bodyline just above the wheel arch, this is really only a skim coat, as evidenced by the number of patches of steel visible. If the filler is more than 1/8-inch thick, the panel should be bodyworked more before the filler is applied.  It may seem strange to use...  It may seem strange to use a tack rag before primer, but the less debris on the surface, the better chance the primer has to “stick” to the metal and filler, just as with the topcoats.  Masked up and ready to prime....  Masked up and ready to prime. It may look like there’s a lot of “mud” on there, but the gallon can of filler seen at the beginning of this article covered both front fenders, the A panels between the fenders and hood, and one door. And a good proportion of it ended up on the floor after sanding.
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