Speedway Motors is making...
Speedway Motors is making independent front suspension installation easy for fat-fendered Ford owners with its new Bolt-In IFS Crossmember for ’35-40 Fords.
There’s an intimidation factor that prevents many street rodders from tackling certain projects on their cars. This factor is particularly strong when it comes to chassis and suspension work—especially if that work involves welding and fabrication. Anytime you can alleviate some of that intimidation, you succeed in making many rodders more self-sufficient.
Speedway Motors is continually looking for new ways to help do-it-yourself rodders accomplish their goals. One of Speedway’s latest innovations is a bolt-in front crossmember assembly that allows the installation of the very popular Mustang II–style independent suspension on ’35-40 Ford cars and ’35-41 Ford half-ton pickups.
With the frame level on jackstands,...
With the frame level on jackstands, the front of the framerails are supported using the brace bar supplied in the crossmember kit. (Since this frame was not attached to a body, an extra brace was temporarily tack welded in place at the approximate location of the firewall.) Then the stock front crossmember is removed by grinding off the rivet heads and punching out the rivets.
Speedway’s new Bolt-In Mustang II Crossmember Kit provides a measure of independence for enthusiasts who may lack strong welding or fabrication skills, but who have no shortage of ambition or desire to turn wrenches and improve the ride, handling, and stance of their fat-fendered Ford. The kit includes a sturdy, professionally TIG-welded new crossmember and interlocking boxing plates that not only facilitate easy installation of the crossmember, but also support the framerails from the inside and spread the load to add critical strength around the front suspension and engine mounts. As an added benefit, the kit’s bolt-on coil spring towers incorporate innovative adjustable upper spring seats, which allow you to fine-tune your car’s ride height up to 2-1/2 inches once the suspension is installed.
The end result is a crossmember kit that gives the average enthusiast the ability to install a proven Mustang II–style front suspension using basic hand tools. Installation can easily be completed in a weekend using little more than a socket and wrench set, jackstands, hand drill, tape measure, and a few clamps. No welding or specialized fabrication skills are required.
The crossmember can then be...
The crossmember can then be positioned in place. It is aligned using the eight mounting holes in the crossmember and boxing plates. A large C-clamp can be used to support the crossmember while 3/8-inch bolts and nuts are used to temporarily hold it to the boxing plates.
As you’ll see in the accompanying photos, installation of Speedway’s new crossmember assembly is relatively straightforward. In fact, the most difficult part may be removing the original Ford crossmember, which was factory riveted in place, and repairing any damage to the original framerails. (Speedway will soon offer replacement framerails for rodders who would prefer to start with a cleaner foundation.) The new crossmember assembly is located using existing holes in the frame, making it easy to properly position and align. From there, it’s simply a matter of following the instructions, drilling a few holes, and bolting everything together. Take a look and you’ll see how easy it can be to make a major ride and handling improvement to your fat-fendered Ford. For rodders who prefer to weld, Speedway still offers its popular weld-in style crossmember, and has done so for 20 years.
Speedway Motors is making independent front suspension installation easy for fat-fendered Ford owners with its new Bolt-In IFS Crossmember for ’35-40 Fords.
The detailed instructions...
The detailed instructions clearly describe how to find and mark the front axle center line prior to removing the original front suspension. It’s a good idea to use a tape measure to verify that the lines are consistent from side to side.
The crossmember kit has two...
The crossmember kit has two frame boxing plates. These are inserted into the framerails, making sure to line up the axle centerline marks made according to the instructions.
The crossmember creates a...
The crossmember creates a cradle underneath each framerail, with an outer flange on the outside of each rail. A 25/64-inch drill bit is used to drill four holes (two on each side) in the framerails, corresponding with the holes in the flanges.
After removing the crossmember...
After removing the crossmember from the frame, the inner frame support plates are temporarily bolted to the outside of the framerails. These are used as templates for drilling the outer four mounting holes on the frame. Follow the instructions and make sure the appropriate mounting plates are oriented properly on their corresponding framerails. After drilling the mounting holes, the plates can be unbolted from the frame.
After removing the crossmember...
After removing the crossmember from the frame, the inner frame support plates are temporarily bolted to the outside of the framerails. These are used as templates for drilling the outer four mounting holes on the frame. Follow the instructions and make sure the appropriate mounting plates are oriented properly on their corresponding framerails. After drilling the mounting holes, the plates can be unbolted from the frame.
The spring towers can now...
The spring towers can now be bolted to the frame. Four outer bolts will pass through the tower flange, the framerail, and the inner support plate. It is best to trial-fit the assembly using regular nuts, saving the Nylok nuts for final assembly.
After re-installing the crossmember...
After re-installing the crossmember and securing it with the boxing plate bolts, the four mounting holes on the bottom of the crossmember are used as guides for drilling corresponding holes in the frame. Four 3/8-inch Grade 5 bolts and nuts are used to secure the bottom of the crossmember to the frame.
Looking inside the framerail,...
Looking inside the framerail, you can see how every mounting bolt passes through two layers of steel, and how the C-channel boxing plates properly reinforce the framerails.
The inner support plates are...
The inner support plates are then slid inside the framerails and secured using the four lower mounting bolts (two on each side).
Each spring tower has two...
Each spring tower has two tabs to secure it to the top of the framerail. A 25/64-inch drill bit is used to drill the four mounting holes through the frame and boxing plates. The towers are then secured using 3/8-inch hardware.
Each spring tower has two...
Each spring tower has two tabs to secure it to the top of the framerail. A 25/64-inch drill bit is used to drill the four mounting holes through the frame and boxing plates. The towers are then secured using 3/8-inch hardware.
The spring towers employ upper...
The spring towers employ upper spring seats with threaded adjuster sleeves, allowing you to fine-tune ride height up to 2-1/2 inches after the suspension is assembled. The sleeves are installed from the bottom of the spring tower and should initially be adjusted to their midpoint. Threaded bosses allow installation of grease zerks and set screws so the sleeves can be lubricated and properly secured. This optional wrench (PN 910-34613), available for purchase separately, is highly recommended for adjusting the sleeves after assembly.
The crossmember is now ready...
The crossmember is now ready to accept Mustang II–style suspension components (after the frame is cleaned and painted, of course). Tubular-style lower control arms (without strut rods) must be used. The builder can choose from one of three new styles of optional bolt-on engine mounts, allowing installation of a small-block or LS-series Chevy V-8, or small-block Ford V-8.