Watson’s StreetWorks offers...
Watson’s StreetWorks offers an upgrade for the original latches in your hot rod with their medium-sized Gator-Jaw latch kit (PN L24) and heavy gauge steel weld-in mounting plates (PN L24M).
Automotive designers throughout the decades have always infused top-notch engineering into their offerings, focusing on everything from performance to safety. While many of their elements age timelessly as the years roll by, others could benefit from a bit of refreshment. When planning mechanical or structural enhancements to your hot rod one of the many logical updates should focus on replacing tired old door latches with fresh-designed units for added protection.
On a recent visit to The Hot Rod Garage in Denton, Maryland, we came across John Wright’s original steel Ford Deuce coupe, which was in for door latch updates. Team leader Dean Alexander has handled plenty of these updates over the years and he wasted no time in contacting Watson’s StreetWorks in Bozrah, Connecticut, for a pair of their medium-sized Gator-Jaw latches and heavy gauge steel weld-in mounting plates to get the job started. The new single rotor “trip” latches meet all Federal Vehicle Safety Standards and are rated for 750 pounds of holding force. They also offer an “L”-shaped release lever for quick release action from either the down or horizontal position. Additionally, Alexander contacted Carolina Custom Hot Rod Parts in Clinton, North Carolina, for their E-Z inside and E-Z outside door handle install kits (available for many applications).
Watson’s StreetWorks offers...
Watson’s StreetWorks offers an upgrade for the original latches in your hot rod with their medium-sized Gator-Jaw latch kit (PN L24) and heavy gauge steel weld-in mounting plates (PN L24M).
Before getting started, Alexander emphasized it’s imperative that the doors and hinges are rock-solid and properly hung prior to disassembly to ensure that reassembly will go smoothly. To prepare the door for the pending work, the first order of business was to remove the inside window garnish molding, door handles, and door panel using standard tools. This fully exposed the inner skin, door, and latch mechanisms. Next, using a slotted screwdriver, the upper and lower dovetails were removed and retained for reinstallation. A slick tip from Alexander was to create an inside door template from clear sheet plastic to locate the alignment holes for the interior door handle mechanism to ensure it’s retained in its original location and avoid any modification upon reassembly. The final unit removed was the door latch mechanism using a slotted screwdriver.
To begin the installation of the new steel latch mounting plates, measurements were taken to keep the alignment of the new latch consistent with the original striker. Using a silver marker (for visibility), the center point of the original door latch opening was marked. The new mounting plate was then held in place and marked at the latch center to mirror that of the original on the door.
With the window garnish molding...
With the window garnish molding and inner door panel removed, Hot Rod Garage team leader Dean Alexander followed with the removal of upper and lower dovetails (which will be reinstalled upon completion).
With that completed there was an additional 7/8-inch toward the door’s outer edge to be trimmed. Alexander used a metal shear to complete the cut and then test-fitted the unit in place to confirm a proper fit. Using a needle-nose Vise-Grip to hold the mounting plate in place, a scribe was used to outline the trimming needed to the door to create a flush-fit. A small air-driven reciprocating saw was then used to complete the incision followed by a small circular grinder capped with an 80-grit disc to deburr the area. It’s always a good idea to wear eye protection during these steps.
Once the fitment of the latch mounting plate was dialed in, it was time to secure the new Gator-Jaw latch mechanism to the latch mounting plate with button-head socket screws. The unit was then clamped in place using a needle-nose Vise-Grip to determine the trimming needed to the inner doorskin for a flush fit. With a scribe, Alexander outlined the initial cuts required to properly fit the unit to the inner door. This step required a bit of time since once the initial opening was completed it needed be finessed to allow smooth operation of the mechanism.
A slotted screwdriver was...
A slotted screwdriver was then used to remove the entire door latch mechanism.
To work in conjunction with the door latch unit, a new outer door handle mechanism was mocked into place to fit behind the door latch unit. A black marker was used to illustrate the trimming required to the inner window support channel bracing. Note that there was no need to remove the door glass for this procedure. Alexander carefully used a small air-driven reciprocating saw to remove the marked area while noting the close proximity to the outer doorskin so as not to damage it. He then proceeded with a flat file to deburr the steel. The outer door handle was then installed and taped (from outside the door) in place determining that 1-1/2 inches needed to be trimmed from the inner shaft, which was completed using a band saw.
The final mounting of the outer door handle mechanism required the fabrication of a small mounting plate fashioned from 16-gauge steel with a gradual step to allow for its mounting to the inner window support channel bracing. Alexander used a cardboard template to determine the size of the brace and cut the unit out using a bandsaw. Once deburred, it was fitted and secured in place. For the Gator-Jaw latch to be actuated by the external door handle mechanism he fabricated a small arm from 10-gauge steel and TIG welded it to the latch base creating a rock-solid unit able to take plenty of abuse.
Using clear sheet plastic,...
Using clear sheet plastic, a template was created to locate the exact location of the interior door handle mechanism to ensure its exact placement to match the door panel upon reassembly with a new unit.
With the fabrication completed, it was time to focus on final trimming the door latch mounting plate and making any minor last-minute adjustments to the inner doorskin area to ensure smooth operation of the new mechanisms. To install the new spring-loaded inner door handle mechanism, the sheet plastic template was taped back into place, locating the exact location for the new unit to be secured with Phillips head screws. Making everything operational, a universal cut-to-fit door handle linkage rod was trimmed to 4-1/2 inches and given a matching jog to fit the latch actuator mechanism. With each of the units in place (and door latch mounting plate secured by magnets) Alexander used his MIG welder to tack the latch-mounting place to the doorframe followed by the final MIG welding. The area was then ground smooth using a 3-inch grinder topped with a 50-grit disc for a seamless presentation. Nearing completion, the stock striker unit in the doorjamb was removed using a slotted screwdriver. To mount the new stainless steel striker in place, a filler piece created from a simple cardboard template and transferred to 16-gauge steel along with a 3/8-inch square nut capture also fashioned from 16-gauge steel. The striker filler panel was then taped in place and a 5/8-inch hole was marked in the exact spot for the striker to be located. Once drilled, the nut capture was MIG-welded in place from the rear and the filler piece was then MIG welded to the doorjamb. It was then ground smooth using a 3-inch grinder crowned with a 50-grit disc, for a factory-fresh look. To ensure your new latches will work smoothly and properly, it’s important to apply a good coating of spray lithium grease to the trigger mechanism-to-rotor contact surface using a Q-tip. The completed installation should perform flawlessly and give your hot rod years of added protection.
For accuracy on the installation...
For accuracy on the installation of the new latch mounting plate, Alexander marked the center point of the latch opening on the door with a silver marker for visibility.
The latch opening of the new...
The latch opening of the new mounting plate was then marked at the center to mirror that of the stock door latch opening. Note the amount of trimming required for a flush fit.
A metal shear was used to...
A metal shear was used to trim 7/8 inch from the side of the plate for a proper fit. It was then scribed to mark the area of the door to be trimmed with a reciprocating saw.
To deburr the trimmed area,...
To deburr the trimmed area, an air-driven grinder topped with an 80-grit disc handled the job. Always be sure to wear eye protection.
To fit the latch and mounting...
To fit the latch and mounting plate, Alexander used a scribe and small reciprocating saw to gradually trim the inner door structure to accommodate the new mechanism and linkage.
The new latch was secured...
The new latch was secured to the mounting plate using button-head socket screws. It was then clamped in place using a pair of Vise Grips to determine trimming needed to the inner doorskin.
To fit the latch and mounting...
To fit the latch and mounting plate, Alexander used a scribe and small reciprocating saw to gradually trim the inner door structure to accommodate the new mechanism and linkage.
Carolina Custom Hot Rod Parts...
Carolina Custom Hot Rod Parts supplied the new outer door handle mechanism upgrade kit for use with Gator-Jaw or rotary latches.
The outer door handle mechanism...
The outer door handle mechanism was first mocked in place to determine the trimming for installation. The area was then marked on the inner window support channel bracing.
The outer door handle mechanism...
The outer door handle mechanism was first mocked in place to determine the trimming for installation. The area was then marked on the inner window support channel bracing.
To secure the outer door mechanism...
To secure the outer door mechanism in place, a cardboard template was made to act as a base from which to fabricate a 16-gauge steel mounting plate.
Using an air-driven small...
Using an air-driven small reciprocating saw, the inner structure was carefully trimmed due to its shallow depth to the outer door. A flat file was then used to deburr the area.
After cutting and deburring...
After cutting and deburring the mounting plate, a gentle step was added. It was bolted to the mechanism and screwed into place on the inner window support channel bracing.
After cutting and deburring...
After cutting and deburring the mounting plate, a gentle step was added. It was bolted to the mechanism and screwed into place on the inner window support channel bracing.
With the door handle taped...
With the door handle taped in place outside and new internal mechanism in place, the handle shaft was marked for trimming at 1-1/2 inches for a perfect fit.
To actuate the external door...
To actuate the external door handle mechanism to the Gator-Jaw latch, Alexander fabricated a 10-gauge steel arm and TIG-welded it to the latch base.
To more cleanly follow the...
To more cleanly follow the inner door panel lines, Alexander created a cardboard template to trim the latch mounting plate prior to its being final welded into place.
Once the inner doorskin was...
Once the inner doorskin was deburred, the exterior door handle, new external handle mechanism, and Gator-Jaw latch and mounting plate were securely fastened in place. Note the mounting plate fastened with magnets pending final welding.
Once the inner doorskin was...
Once the inner doorskin was deburred, the exterior door handle, new external handle mechanism, and Gator-Jaw latch and mounting plate were securely fastened in place. Note the mounting plate fastened with magnets pending final welding.
Using a bandsaw, the mounting...
Using a bandsaw, the mounting plate was supported with a block of wood and carefully trimmed. It was then deburred using a 3-inch circular grinder topped with an 80-grit disc.
Using the sheet plastic template...
Using the sheet plastic template for correct placement, the Carolina Custom Hot Rod Parts spring-loaded interior door handle mechanism was secured in place using the provided Phillips head screws.
Some additional trimming was...
Some additional trimming was required to the inner doorskin as illustrated by the cardboard template to allow unrestricted latch movement and access.
The interior door handle kit...
The interior door handle kit includes a universal cut-to-fit interior door handle linkage. Alexander measured 4-1/2 inches for his needs and cut it to fit, while also mirroring the jog for the latch actuator mechanism.
The interior door handle kit...
The interior door handle kit includes a universal cut-to-fit interior door handle linkage. Alexander measured 4-1/2 inches for his needs and cut it to fit, while also mirroring the jog for the latch actuator mechanism.
To prepare for the installation...
To prepare for the installation of the optional Watson’s StreetWorks stainless steel striker, the factory striker was removed using a standard slotted screwdriver.
A simple piece of cardboard...
A simple piece of cardboard was used to fashion a striker template filler piece from 16-gauge steel.
With the striker filler section...
With the striker filler section fabbed, Alexander then used 16-gauge steel to create a 3/8-inch square nut capture to MIG weld inside the striker filler section to secure the new striker unit to.
The installations were MIG-welded...
The installations were MIG-welded into place and ground smooth to a factory-fresh look using a 3-inch circular grinder topped with a 50-grit disc. They should provide years of perfect operation.