We raised the Nomad on the...
We raised the Nomad on the chassis lift, note the support stands under the front bumper. When the rear axle is removed, the weight bias will shift forward, potentially allowing the car to fall.
For decades the ’55-57 Chevrolet rear axle housing was the choice for many hot rods. After all, they were plentiful and since they were all parallel leaf spring applications there were only two small brackets to trim off before installing the rearend in the hot rod of your choice.
Measuring about 60 inches from flange to flange, they were a bit wide for early hot rods, which may explain the number of hot rods with some sidewall showing outside the fender in the ’60s and ’70s. However that measurement was spot-on for many postwar cars so these rearends were among hot rodders’ favorite rear axle swaps. At the time you got modern drum brakes, easy-to-find gear sets, and best of all, a price that was approaching free.
Using a transmission jack...
Using a transmission jack and a fabricated fixture that supports both axle tubes and the front of the centersection, the rearend was lifted taking the weight off the springs.
Of course that was 55 years ago, and today things have changed dramatically. The supply of original ’55-56 rearends has dried up and those who are found are, well, 55 years old. Pitted housings, non-limited slip, small axles, bearings, and drum brakes that are no longer modern, are all features you can find on a ’55-57 Chevrolet rear. As a matter of fact, not only have these rear axles fallen out of favor with early street rods, even the Tri-Five bunch is removing them in favor of a more modern unit.
Longtime STREET RODDER reader Don Prieto (all-around hot rodder back to the days when his Cacklefest digger was really a race car!) owns a prime example with his ’56 Nomad. It’s a neat car with ample power and a great look but he wanted to improve the old Chevrolet’s street manners. It was time for improved suspension and brakes along with a limited-slip differential to handle the horsepower under the hood and provide better handling through better traction.
From the rear you can see...
From the rear you can see the stout 2-inch box tubing fixture supports both axle tubes for safe removal of the original rear axle housing.
While the subject of our conversion is a ’56 Chevrolet, it should be noted this swap would be very similar on all Chevrolets from 1934-57 and virtually any other car or truck with parallel leaf springs. And if you are wondering, yes, Strange Engineering also has bolt-in rear axles for later coil spring cars.
To that end, a bulletproof Strange Engineering S60 bolt-in rear axle was ordered, along with performance shock absorbers from Performance Online. The original 1956 parallel leaf springs are still the main components of the rear suspension, but we will have superior brakes and shocks improve driveability, along with a gear set that will handle all the horsepower we can throw at it.
It’s always fun to uncrate...
It’s always fun to uncrate new parts, and it was love at first sight for our Strange Engineering S60 rearend. With the spring’s pads already in place this will be a true bolt-in swap.
The S60 rear was developed by Strange Engineering for extreme street performance, particularly street/strip cars. Back in the day, the 12-bolt rear was king for the GM crowd, but today’s modern motors can easily overpower the old 12-bolt. The S60 incorporates Dana 60 components. The 9.750 ring gear will endure tremendous abuse, equal or better than the 9-inch Ford. The S60 is equipped with strong 35-spline axles so there is no need to upgrade axles and these rearends are available as complete units with no brackets, ready for your fabrication or there is also a long list of bolt-in housing for most popular cars. The very cool aluminum rear cover is the crowning touch to a true performance housing. We ordered the bolt-in variety of the Strange S60 with a 3:54 gear set, this way all the brackets were in place for our ’56 Chevrolet installation. Inside we selected the Trac-lock limited-slip option and on each end of those big 3-inch tubes we have drum brakes but several disc brake options are available too.
While there are several different...
While there are several different disc brake options available from Strange Engineering we opted for the standard big drum brakes; they will be ample for our Nomad.
The installation was really very straight forward, being a true bolt-in swap. The only fabrication consisted of making new hard brake lines for the housing; the rest of the project was done with wrenches. The process is simple enough that just following the photos will show you how easy the swap really is, but always remember the safety side of things when you are working under a car. Axle housings are heavy so if you are working on a lift remember to put safety supports under the front bumper, and if you are working on jackstands be certain the vehicle cannot move after removing that rear weight. Use proper jacks and supports to raise and lower the housing and be certain the springs are completely unloaded before removing the shackles.
We began by removing the driveshaft...
We began by removing the driveshaft U-bolts; after removal, a couple of wraps of tape will prevent the endcaps from falling off the universal. You can tie the driveshaft up and leave it in the transmission to prevent fluid from leaking.
Since removing the rear housing involves dropping both leaf springs now would be the perfect time to replace both the front spring-eye bushing and the rear shackle bushings. We used a set of urethane bushings, U-bolts, and lowering blocks sourced from Performance Online. Our new adjustable gas shocks are also from Performance Online and will go a long way to controlling those springs. These changes along with the additional grip offered by the limited-slip differential helped us reap substantial performance gains.
A quick test-run through our slalom course bears that out. Our times dropped dramatically. On our 420-foot, seven-cone slalom our times dropped from 7.53 seconds to 6.51 and our average speed increased from 38.3 to 44.2 mph. Pretty impressive results when you consider there was no fabrication involved, just simple bolt-on goodies.
Next we removed the hard line...
Next we removed the hard line from the flex line where they meet on the frame. Always use line wrenches on brake lines. Remove the clip holding the flex line to the bracket.
And so, as it may be time for you to consider a similar third member swap, follow along and you can see this is a simple and rewarding weekend job. We’ll give you time to get that done, then next issue we’ll show you a very cool front suspension upgrade.

Removing all the brake pads,...

Removing all the brake pads, springs, and clips made it easier to remove the parking brake cable.

The parking brake cables must...

The parking brake cables must be removed. Remove the brake drum to access cable. Note how much smaller the brake shoes are on the stock rearend.

We removed the upper and lower...

We removed the upper and lower shock nuts, compressed the shock, and removed it from the lower mount. The stock ’56 upper mount goes through the floor so access is inside the car.

An air ratchet makes removal...

An air ratchet makes removal of the shackle bolts easier, a drop of oil on the threads helps too.

The new upper bushing is slipped...

The new upper bushing is slipped into place; the urethane bushing will go a long way to better handling.

After lowering the spring...

After lowering the spring we moved to the upper shackle bolt where the air ratchet removes that nut too.

We lifted the Strange Engineering...

We lifted the Strange Engineering S60 rear axle assembly into position using the same fixture and transmission jack.

After removing the old shackle...

After removing the old shackle and most of the bushing material, a propane torch was used to melt out any remnants. Always be aware of gas tanks and gas tank vents when using a torch under your car.

After installing new urethane...

After installing new urethane bushings in the spring we rotated the spring upward and installed two new Performance Online shackles.

A Performance Online lowering...

A Performance Online lowering block is used between the housing and the spring. The hole in the lowering block corresponds with the spring center bolt.

After the U-bolts are tight...

After the U-bolts are tight we cut the excess material off using a cut-off wheel in an air grinder, leaving about 1/2 inch of stud below the nut.

New U-bolts go over the 3-inch...

New U-bolts go over the 3-inch axle tubes and through the stock Chevrolet lower spring plates. The longer U-bolts have plenty of thread, making it easy to pull the spring up.

The Performance Online adjustable...

The Performance Online adjustable gas shocks were first bolted to the upper mount then extended to align with the mounting stud on the lower spring plate.

Our Snap-on Impact made running...

Our Snap-on Impact made running the nuts up on the U-bolts an effortless job. Pull the nuts off evenly to prevent binding the spring plate.

Next we fed the parking brake...

Next we fed the parking brake cable through the backing plate to make the proper connections and adjustments.

We fabricated new brake lines...

We fabricated new brake lines from mild steel tubing using a double-inverted flaring tool and a simple tubing cutter.

The third member was then...

The third member was then filled with the appropriate gear lube, in this case high-performance Lucas Oil was used in our brand-new Trac-lock–equipped Strange S60 rearend.

After cutting, flaring, and...

After cutting, flaring, and bending the lines to fit, we attached the flare nut to the wheel cylinder and tightened them with a line wrench.

The ‘56 Nomad turned into...

The ‘56 Nomad turned into a modern-day Camaro with slalom times of 6.51 seconds at 44.2 mph. That was an improvement of 1 second and a jump of 6 mph during from the stock trim. (Photo by Steven Rupp.)