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Soda Blasting & PowdercoatingBuilding a great foundation From the June, 2012 issue of Street Rodder By Eric Geisert
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Blasting paint, or anything... Blasting paint, or anything else short of rust, can be blasted off a surface with soda bicarbonate. It works well on items made from fiberglass and, because there isn’t any heat generated when using the product, it won’t lead to warpage when blasting aluminum or steel. The media used in soda blasting, sodium bicarbonate, has been around forever, and its uses are widely varied. Not only is it the soothing ingredient found in mineral springs, but another form, baking soda, has many uses in the kitchen and around the house. When workers were trying to figure out what could be used to remove old material from the Statue of Liberty during its restoration back in the early ’80s, a soda-based power spray not only removed the grime, but the soda was found to be essentially environmental friendly. Over the past couple of decades, soda blasting has become popular with the automotive crowd because of its ease of use as well as spectacular results, but it was not without its rumors, most of which are unfounded. When STREET RODDER wanted to have a new build frame blasted before it was to be powdercoated, the magazine contacted Cal Blast in Upland, California. The De Albas, a father and son team both with the first name Albert, have owned Cal Blast for years, with Dad having spent the previous two decades in the automotive restoration and repair business. Up close, you can see the... Up close, you can see the steel cab was given a smooth finish after soda blasting. The product does leave a powdery film after blasting, and it should be cleaned with soap and water before any body or paintwork begins. Albert Sr. has several years experience in soda blasting, and finds it’s the best way to give customers a clean and perfect surface before body and paintwork begins. There are only two real downsides to soda blasting, but Cal Blast has a good answer to both. Some folks don’t know they have to wash the surface of their blasted item with soap and water after soda blasting due to the light film of slippery dust that is left, but most items going through Cal Blast have a secondary blast of copper shot, which removes any leftover soda media. Albert Sr. has heard stories about paint popping off material that had been blasted with soda, but he believes it was a problem with the prep and not getting all the dust off the item before it was primed. Soda blasting won’t remove rust, either, but Cal Blast uses the copper shot after the soda just for that purpose, and it removes all rust. The result is not only a rust-free part, but the copper removes the leftover soda dust, too. And, to further help their clients, Cal Blast not only blasts products with both soda and copper, but it also offers priming services, so your project can sit around in your garage without any surface rust reappearing weeks later. Another advantage in blasting with soda is if you’re working on a car body you can roll it into the booth with the glass and trim still on it and the soda won’t harm either. And soda won’t harm aluminum, steel, or fiberglass. The soda comes out of the... The soda comes out of the tip of the gun at about 100 psi. Albert Jr. says the texture of the soda “starts out like table salt, but ends up like flour” after being pulverized. Over the years there have been many different types of blasting media used—each with its benefits and pitfalls. Blasting with sand is probably the most well known, and is also the most well-known for the damage it can cause when mishandled. The air pressure used to project the sand through a gun is high enough so when the media hits the metal, it generates heat, and the chances of warping large-panel areas (such as hoods, roofs, or doors) can be high. The dust generated with sand blasting can be hazardous to those working with it, too, though the material itself is fairly cheap to use. Other medias used in blasting, plastic chips (think ground-up Legos) and walnut shells (which can leave a natural oil on the surface), can be reused a few more times before they lose their paint-cutting qualities, and that might be the one downside to soda blasting: it can only be used once. As Albert Sr. likes to say: “It starts out like salt and ends up like flour.” The back of this truck cab... The back of this truck cab had a fair amount of body filler covering the dents, and the soda blast took it right off. The long brown scratches in the body are actually rust spots that have been there for years. Cal Blast follows their soda blast with a copper blast (using copper shot), which removes any and all rust. But getting material off parts and pieces is only half the battle. The second part to a good foundation is what you do next with the parts. For years people have painted suspension parts, chassis, and wheels, but powdercoating these items is becoming more and more popular. Most folk’s first encounter with powdercoating is the finish found on their lawn furniture—very strong and nearly impossible to get off. Back in the day, when powdercoating was first being used for automotive applications, you would find only basic colors. But times have changed, and now nearly any color in the rainbow can be custom mixed, and can come in flat, or semi- and high-gloss finishes. Wrinkle and hammer tone finishes are also available. After this truck frame and miscellaneous trim pieces were soda and copper blasted at Cal Blast, they were delivered to Fusioncoat, a powdercoating company owned by Eddie Borges (of Eddie Marine/Motorsport fame) based in Rancho Cucamonga, California. Fusioncoat has been around since 1997 and they have coated everything from car wheels to suspension parts, engine parts and air cleaners, and everything else in between. And where anodizing is a plating process where a dye is added to create a color, powdercoating is accomplished by negatively grounding the item to be coated, then positively charging a powder media that gets shot through a gun at low pressure and, when it hits the negatively grounded part, the powder sticks. What’s more, Fusioncoat can also do two-stage powdercoating that gives the finish a pearlized or candied appearance. All of these parts, including... All of these parts, including the grille, fender braces, inner fender panels, and more will be soda blasted. It’s a great way to clean up metal if it’s new, or remove old paint if it’s old. To start the process, parts are wired to an aluminum foil-wrapped rack. The foil is used for two reasons: conductivity, and ease of removal after being covered with overspray from the powdercoating. Fusioncoat’s Toby Martinez, who has been powdercoating for more than 20 years, then fills a hopper with powdercoating media, which resembles colored baby powder. He sprays the parts with the powdered media until everything has a light, even coat. From there the parts are put into a large baking oven, which is set at 400 degrees F. Depending on the thickness of the material coated, the parts and pieces will stay in the oven anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes and, after they are removed and cooled, have a perfectly even finish in the color and gloss level chosen. Plus chances are you’ll dent the part before you’ll ever be able to scratch or chip something that has been coated by Fusioncoat.  Albert De Alba Jr. blasts...  Albert De Alba Jr. blasts a section of the truck frame with soda. The “moon suit” is mandatory—the dust from soda blasting will clog your lungs in moments without it.  Albert Jr. works on the grille,...  Albert Jr. works on the grille, and a close-up shows how clean the stripped metal becomes after the blasting.  Albert Jr. works on the grille,...  Albert Jr. works on the grille, and a close-up shows how clean the stripped metal becomes after the blasting.  The fender braces get a blast,...  The fender braces get a blast, too. Soda blasting is so non-invasive it won’t damage glass or stainless trim but it will take paint off right down to the metal in one pass.  The process works because...  The process works because of conductivity. Part supports are wrapped in aluminum foil for two reasons: it’s conductive to electricity, and it can be removed and replaced after every powder job.  Over at Fusioncoat, the pallet...  Over at Fusioncoat, the pallet of prepped parts is ready for powdercoating.  You don’t need to do this...  You don’t need to do this on new parts, but on old parts Martinez applies a torch flame to cook and burn any grease or grime that might be leftover inside the frame.  The powder booth at Fusioncoat...  The powder booth at Fusioncoat is similar to a paint booth, with a draw-through air filter system at one end to gather excess powder floating in the air.  These little plastic plugs...  These little plastic plugs come in a variety of sizes so holes can be plugged before the powdercoating process can begin.  A clamp and wire allows the...  A clamp and wire allows the frame to be negatively grounded before the positively charged powder is shot toward it.  Martinez adds a bit of satin...  Martinez adds a bit of satin black powder to the hopper. It has a consistency similar to talcum powder.  Martinez works quickly but...  Martinez works quickly but efficiently while working his way down the frame. It’s similar to shooting paint, but you don’t get any runs!  Once the frame is coated with...  Once the frame is coated with powder, it gets rolled into a massive oven and cured for 30 minutes at 400 degrees F. Time is less for items that are not as thick, as it doesn’t take as long to heat up.  Fusioncoat has a rainbow of...  Fusioncoat has a rainbow of colors to choose from when it comes to powdercoating. Finishes can be flat, satin, and high-gloss, and this truck chassis will be done in a satin black.  Once the black is sprayed...  Once the black is sprayed for the frame, Martinez has to use compressed air to clean every part of the delivery system (gun, hoses, canister) before the next color can be sprayed. It’s just like painting: You don’t want some unwanted color particle creeping into what you’re doing next!  The process is the same for...  The process is the same for the grille, but the color will be cream white.  A before and after section...  A before and after section of the frame shows just how even the powdercoating lays down after curing, and the finish will outlast conventional painting by a wide margin.  A before and after section...  A before and after section of the frame shows just how even the powdercoating lays down after curing, and the finish will outlast conventional painting by a wide margin.  Powdercoated by Fusioncoat...  Powdercoated by Fusioncoat in an approximate 20 percent matte finish the chassis is now ideally suited to fight off road dirt and grease during its lifetime. The chassis is undergoing final assembly by Hot Rods by Dean in Arizona.
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