|
|
FAST And EZ-EFIThe latest direct-port injection from FAST in their long line of successful EZ-EFI applications From the August, 2012 issue of Street Rodder By Ed Taylor Photography by Brian Brennan
|
|
This is what an 370hp EZ-EFI looks like. While peak power doesn’t really improve over a properly tuned carburetor, EZ-EFI shines under everyday, part-throttle street conditions, where most carburetors struggle to deliver decent air/fuel ratios. We started with a Ford Racing... We started with a Ford Racing X302 remanufactured long-block. While this photo shows the engine with stamped valve covers, we opted for the polished, finned cast aluminum covers. Decades ago hot rod engine projects oftentimes were deemed finished after bolting on a carburetor. The “controlled gas leak” proved successful for decades, regardless of its shortcomings. From this point, getting your engine to run truly well you needed to account for ignition timing, altitude, and an assortment of related “fine-tuning” tips. Many of us were “pretty good” but oftentimes we looked for the local “carb expert” to truly dial in our four-barrel. When electronic fuel injection (EFI) arrived, leading edge technology involved a crate engine, bolting on a factory fuel injection system, and then finding a “keyboard cowboy” to tune the system complete with mysterious chips and all the high-tech jargon that goes with it. With nearly 30 years of aftermarket EFI experience, little has changed and there are plenty of rodders who would rather endure the hot-and-cold vagaries of carburetion rather than trudge through the pitfalls of EFI. The FAST EZ-EFI kit comes... The FAST EZ-EFI kit comes complete with computer, intake manifold (Edelbrock), throttle body, wiring harness, controllers, injectors, all sensors, fuel filter, and so on, to make this system a weekend install. What if we told you that EFI has progressed to the point that it can be as simple as bolting the mechanical components in place, entering a few simple data points into a handheld a controller, and turning the ignition key to “Start.” Once the engine fires and settles into a comfortable idle speed that you command, your tuning efforts are complete. While that may sound as overly simplified as the promises of those late-night weight loss programs on cable TV, the honest truth is that it’s this simple. Frankly, the most difficult part of this entire EFI operation will be creating a decent fuel delivery system. If you can handle that, the rest of it rates right up there with the name for this system—EZ-EFI. Editor Brian Brennan’s ’28 Model A pickup (Nostalgia Speed & Cycle newly minted steel) was the perfect candidate for us to test FAST’s EZ-EFI claims. To make this even easier, we decided to start with a one of Ford Racing’s X302 budget-based long-block packages. The engine comes as an assembled (mild-overbore, 4.030x3.00 bore and stroke) 306ci seasoned block sporting a cast crank, I-beam forged connecting rods, and durable forged pistons, helping to make 9:1 compression. Bringing the small-inch V-8 to life Ford also screws in a hydraulic roller E303 cam (220/220 degrees duration at 0.050 with 0.498-inch lift and a lobe separation angle of 110 degrees), and a set of Ford Racing X306 aluminum heads complete with 1.94/1.54-inch valves sitting in 64cc chambers. Topped off with a set of polished aluminum valve covers and we were more than halfway toward a complete running car. The first thing you want to... The first thing you want to do is seal the engine by installing the intake. We used Fel-Pro intake gaskets to ensure a tight connection. Along with an Edelbrock (PN 8843) water pump, distributor, wires, and exhaust, the main thing we needed was an intake system to complement the EZ-EFI. That choice was as easy as looking in the FAST catalog under the multi-port fuel injection kit. This includes a single-plane intake manifold, fuel rails, 36 lb/hr injectors, a throttle body, fuel pump, filter, idle air control motor, all the sensors, and, of course, the computer and handheld tuner. Once we bolted this system together on the engine, there wasn’t much left to do but test this package on the dyno at Duttweiler Performance and push a few buttons. After bolting the engine to the dyno, we were faced with the same number of connections that would be required in the car. Including the very simple eight-injector click-ins, there are only nine more connections required to make this system work. Even better, it’s impossible to make the wrong connection because each sensor demands its own specific electrical connector. So you can’t, in theory, screw up. By following simple commands on the handheld controller, with a few simple keystrokes you can configure the EZ-EFI to your specific combination and then that’s when the fun starts. The only custom work involved... The only custom work involved in our installation occurred when we discovered the intake didn’t clear the sealing surface for the valve covers. This required 1/8-inch-wide bevel on the intake manifold to produce the necessary clearance. After a mere 13 controller keystrokes, we hit the starter motor and our small-block Ford fired literally on the first revolution and within seconds it had settled into a comfortable 850-rpm idle speed with literally no drama. FAST recommends that once the engine has fired that you warm the engine and adjust the idle air controller motor to the middle of its range, which is also easy, and then you’re ready to drive the engine. Since our small-block was on the dyno, we were ready to begin pulling for power. After no more than a dozen pulls, we had achieved peak power and the rest of the learning for part throttle will be achieved once the engine is comfortably resting in between the framerails. So how did we do? For our efforts, our 340hp rated engine overachieved to 370 horses, along with 346 lb-ft of torque. This included testing the engine all the way down to 1,300 rpm at wide-open throttle where we made 262 lb-ft of torque. This is something that most carburetors won’t even attempt to achieve. We know because we’ve tried. In the meantime, we’ll take you through the steps necessary to make all this magic happen. It doesn’t get much easier. To complete the engine package,... To complete the engine package, we installed a March serpentine front accessory drive (PN 30170) that is not only very clean, but also extremely functional. Belt tension is adjusted with the included turnbuckle. How easy is EZ-EFI? In all the years of working with aftermarket parts, I have to say that EZ-EFI is one of the few parts that truly lives up to its name. After a few simple electrical and fuel connections, we were programmed and running in less than three minutes. Here is the step-by-step view of the EZ-EFI setup. Because the EZ-EFI does not control ignition timing, we used an MSD E-Curve distributor. This is a stand-alone distributor that substitutes an electronic ignition curve for the old mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms of previous designs. This is a stand-alone distributor, which means it also incorporates its own built-in ignition amplifier. Vacuum advance is handled by a built-in manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor located on the actual circuit board inside the distributor. This makes for a very compact and clean installation since you now don’t need a large external ignition box. One of the cool things about this distributor is that you can do all your initial setup on the workbench rather than bent over the fender. The following captions will outline the setup procedure for the ignition. Installing the coolant sensor... Installing the coolant sensor requires a little dab of thread sealer and a gentle touch to produce a leak-free connection. EFI gas tank One of the important “aha!” moments when converting any engine to EFI is to see if your fuel delivery needs a return line to the gas tank. Some systems (most notable the GM LS from 2000 forward) often utilize what’s called a “dead head” system, meaning that a return line from the fuel rails back to the tank isn’t required. Our system does require a return line and knowing this we ordered a gas tank from Tanks Inc. It’s a universal tank that we will have Frank “the Riveter” Wallic make an aluminum trunk for that will encase the tank, giving it protection as well as giving the appearance of a storage trunk in the bed rather than an exposed gas tank. This photo shows how the aluminum... This photo shows how the aluminum fuel rail stands are located in the fuel rail. These are retained by two opposing set screws in the fuel rail. Install the stands in the intake manifold first and then attach the fuel rails to the four corner stands. The space we had to work with allowed us to use the Tanks U3-GP, which is a universal steel alloy (galvanneal steel and primered) tank measuring 11-1/2x11-1/2x34 inches. It has a 16-gallon capacity, which is ideal for our small-block Ford V-8. The tank is fully baffled, has a 3/8-inch ID internal pick-up tube, rollover vent valve (very important!), and appropriate mounting brackets. The tank also features a bolt-on neck with a billet cap and accompanying O-ring seal and will accept all of the popular aftermarket sending units. The gas tank is of little value unless you have a fuel pump. Submersible pumps have proven themselves to be reliable, perform well, and are quiet! To go along with our Tanks tank we also picked up a submersible fuel pump from them. It’s a GPA-4 that’s made here in the States and features an in-tank harness, a heavy 10-gauge, no-warp mounting plate (yellow-zinc plated to prevent corrosion), oven brazed fittings, and will handle 40-100 psi. The internal wiring harness, supply line, return line, filter sock, and insulator sleeve are included. Next we installed the vacuum... Next we installed the vacuum fittings in the back of the throttle body. The two left connections are for un-ported vacuum while the far right is ported intended for the distributor’s vacuum advance. The fuel requirement for our Ford V-8, according to Ed Taylor at Duttweiler Performance, tells us the FAST EZ-EFI is set to run at 43 psi. We selected a pump capable of supporting 600 hp, even though our max is just below 400. According to Taylor, “This way the pump isn’t running at or near maximum output but rather ‘relaxed’ during normal operation mode.” The GPA-4 fuel pump (Walbro) works well with the factory-installed reservoir trays. The tray is an absolute necessity for fuel-injection in order to prevent fuel starvation when accelerating and cornering.  The idle air controller motor...  The idle air controller motor came next. Be careful not to pinch the O-ring between the idle air motor and the throttle body.  Using a little dab of thread...  Using a little dab of thread sealer, secure the fuel rails to the stands as shown.  Lube the injector O-rings...  Lube the injector O-rings with white lithium grease and then tip the injector as you install it into the fuel rail being careful not to pinch the O-ring in the process. You will quickly discover if the O-ring is damaged as it will cause a major fuel leak.  FAST includes the fuel pressure...  FAST includes the fuel pressure regulator. We installed it on the end of the fuel rail, but it can also be remotely mounted if necessary. We set mechanical fuel pressure at 43 psi.  After installing the MSD E-Curve...  After installing the MSD E-Curve electronic distributor (PN 8503), the three-prong plug demands a distributor ground, positive and negative connections to the coil, and a switched ignition lead. The green wire from the MSD distributor is a clean tach signal necessary to trigger the EZ-EFI. We also included MSD spark plug wires and Made 4 You spark plug wire separators.  With the EZ-EFI in place of...  With the EZ-EFI in place of the carburetor, it only took a few power pulls to come with a peak power number of 370 hp and 346 lb-ft of torque, and the best part was that EZ-EFI did all the heavy lifting. All we did was pull the throttle handle and let the electrons do all the work.  Before starting the engine,...  Before starting the engine, we filled the crankcase with AMSOIL Inc. 10W-30 Synthetic; we also used an AMSOIL Inc. oil filter.  Trans-Dapt offers an assortment...  Trans-Dapt offers an assortment of vacuum cap kits. We selected PN 9009, giving us a wide selection to plug off line opening during the build process and until the engine is in place and hooked up for the final time.  We used an ARP oil pump pre-lube...  We used an ARP oil pump pre-lube driveshaft to completely lubricate the engine before startup. Note that we turn the engine about a quarter-turn every five seconds and we add oil to all the rockers within a minute. (ARP intake bolts, PN 454-2001, and carb stud kit, PN 400-2401.)  The Trans-Dapt carburetor...  The Trans-Dapt carburetor hat (PN 2012) is ideal for keeping unwanted elements from getting into the FAST throttle body until it too is covered with an appropriate air cleaner prior to final operation.  To satisfy the curious, we...  To satisfy the curious, we tried a Holley 750 mechanical secondary Street HP for comparison purposes. As we’ve seen in the past, power between the carburetor and EZ-EFI was within 1 or 2 hp all the way through the curve.  Any vacuum line you can find;...  Any vacuum line you can find; big or little openings need to be plugged for their own protection until final connections are made.  Any vacuum line you can find;...  Any vacuum line you can find; big or little openings need to be plugged for their own protection until final connections are made.  Make sure to have a supply...  Make sure to have a supply of plugs handy for any openings in the intake manifold that aren’t used. Make sure to place a sealant on the threads.  Trans-Dapt offers silicone...  Trans-Dapt offers silicone vacuum hose in an assortment of colors and diameters. We opted for red (PN 6997) to match other engine accessories.  When you power up the handheld...  When you power up the handheld programmer for the first time, select the startup wizard and hit enter.  Having your MSD primary wires...  Having your MSD primary wires (PN 31199)run neatly around and over your engine is the job of the Made 4 You separators (PN 50-95613). (MSD Blaster SS coil was used, PN 8207.)  In this step you will want...  In this step you will want to start a new tune, so use the up and down arrows to answer “Yes.”  The next screen will display...  The next screen will display the engine’s displacement. Use the up or down arrows to establish displacement and hit the “Done” button.  The critical step for EZ-EFI...  The critical step for EZ-EFI operation is to connect the battery positive and negative directly to the battery. Unless you do this essential step, there’s potential for electrical noise problems.  Idle speed will be the next...  Idle speed will be the next screen that allows you to choose the desired speed.  The next screen asks if you...  The next screen asks if you are using EZ-EFI single, dual, or Inglese throttle bodies. Since this is configured for port fuel, the choice is “Other.”  Use the up and down arrows...  Use the up and down arrows to select the number of injectors (8) and hit enter when done.  Using the up and down arrows,...  Using the up and down arrows, select the injector size (36 pound) you are using and press enter.  With the engine off, set the...  With the engine off, set the engine’s working fuel pressure in the software to 43 psi and hit enter. Once your setup is complete and the engine is running, mechanically set the pressure at 43 psi with the vacuum line removed from the regulator.  Now it’s time to calibrate...  Now it’s time to calibrate the throttle position switch. With the engine off and throttle closed, pressing the “Enter” button will calibrate the sensor’s closed throttle position.  Again, with the engine off,...  Again, with the engine off, hold the throttle wide open and press enter to calibrate wide-open throttle position.  Press “Enter” after the display...  Press “Enter” after the display tells you to close the throttle.  The display will now indicate...  The display will now indicate the basic setup is complete and you can start the engine.  As the engine warms up, a...  As the engine warms up, a bar graph will move across toward the target indicated on the screen. As the engine has warmed up, you can adjust the mechanical idle speed until the indicator is centered in target. This centers the travel of the idle air speed motor. Once the engine is up and running properly, you can go back into the Advanced Options in the main menu and adjust things like the air/fuel ratio at Idle, Cruise, and WOT. This is where you also set the rev limiter.  With cap and rotor removed...  With cap and rotor removed from the distributor, we decided to first set the rev limiter. There are three pots on the circuit board, the round one is the rev limiter. It has a very small arrow to point to the rev limiter scale. We set ours at 6,800 rpm. The rev limiter range is from 5,000-10,000 rpm.  The two square pots located...  The two square pots located on the circuit board are called out as Switch 1 and Switch 2. In the instructions for the distributor is this sheet that indicates pot positions to determine the actual ignition curve. There are four total electronic centrifugal advance curves and each one of these total curves (10, 15, 20, and 25 degrees of advance) has options for four different rates of advance to achieve those totals. Then there is a total of five different “vacuum” or part throttle advance curves also to choose from. At part throttle, these add to the centrifugal curves. At wide-open throttle, the vacuum curves do not add timing.  We chose to use the least-aggressive...  We chose to use the least-aggressive 20-degree centrifugal advance curve, which is called out in the instruction sheet at the “E” curve. With an initial timing setting of 16 degrees at idle, this gave us a total of 36 degrees of total timing over 3,400 rpm. Then we set the Switch 1 at position 2 to establish a conservative vacuum advance curve.  Tanks Inc.’s universal U3-GP...  Tanks Inc.’s universal U3-GP comes with all the necessary hardware and holds 16 gallons.  Everything you need comes...  Everything you need comes from Tanks for the tank and their submersible fuel pump kits. This one is a GPA-4 capable of supporting up to 600 hp.  The filler neck has an O-ring...  The filler neck has an O-ring seal and is rollover rated. The mounting plate has provisions for both outgoing and incoming fuel lines, sending unit, and submersible pump with electrical hookup and vent.
|
|
|