The thought process behind installing any brand of thermal-acoustic barrier into a coupe or roadster is to stay cool and quiet, or in cold weather keep warm. It's a phenomenon I discovered while riding chopped Harley-Davidsons from California to Sturgis in all kinds of bad weather. After riding many miles in the hot desert sun or in the freezing cold, all it would take was a 1- to 2-degree spike in the temperature up or down and it made an astounding difference. It was not only better insulation that motivated me to cover the Hot Rod to Hell's interior walls with Eastwood Thermo-Coustic Barrier, the added weight will make the track T ride better, get better traction, and even cut down on the amount of road noise I'll have to tolerate for hours on end out on the road.
Eastwood Tech Tip:
When driving the late model during the winter months, use the gas station window squeegee to clean the plastic headlight lenses to eliminate the salt damage. This also brings up the tip of making sure the squeegee at the gas station doesn't have junk on it from the guy before you. Make sure you clean it in the fluid tank well before you use it on glass.
1. A good before-and-after comparison. For months I drove the track T as an empty shell with only a pair of Riviera convertible sofa cushions as the interior.
2. Eastwood Thermo-Coustic Barrier has a butyl rubber membrane rated to a service temperature of 140 degrees F. Thermo-Coustic's mil thickness is super fat. It's the mil thickness of the aluminum facing that determines how effective a sound-control mat will be at resisting heat intrusion.
3. A mat knife or scissors can be used, but a single-edge razor blade works fine for me to cut with. I measure the area to be covered and mark it off with a Sharpie, then use a metal ruler to draw the cut lines.
4. To shape the floor tunnel I formed the Thermo-Coustic around the tunnel and then removed it from the car to pull off the brown paper backing, pressed the tunnel into place, and then moved outward.
5. Removing half of the brown paper backing to tack the Thermo-Coustic barrier in place was followed by pulling the backing directly back to stick the Thermo-Coustic barrier into position.
6. Don't cover anything up. All wiring and body mount bolts should be left visible for future access.
7. I like to start by placing as large a sheet of a Thermo-Coustic barrier into place to cover the greatest amount of area possible. Then section in smaller pieces around it; aluminized foil tape works to fill in the gaps.